The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Long is in Short is Out, Lacoste’s Lemaire at Hermes, Expensive Handbags at the Mall, J. Crew’s Profits Rise and Gucci Cruise 2011.

NYT

(nyt)A Long, Lean Backlash to the Mini

Ruth La Furla of the NYT shows you how wearing the long maxi silhouette this summer can give you a whole new look and presence. “An elongated silhouette also represents a turning away from the frivolity and calculated provocation of a thigh-high skirt “toward a more austere sensibility,” said Holli Rogers, the buying director for Net-A-Porter, which highlights and sells long tanks from Helmut Lang(a side-split jersey maxi, $330), Stella McCartney (a long silk shirtdress, $1,115) and L’Agence (a cross-back jersey maxi, $200) on its Web site. “People are accepting a more muted, covered-up feeling and moving on”. “There is definitely a movement to a very lengthy look, especially among the young,” said Nevena Borissova, a partner in Curve, a progressive retailer with stores in New York, Los Angeles and Miami. Ms. Borissova favors radically stretched-out skirts and dresses that “drag on the floor, with raw edges, and worn with combat boots,” she said. And as she pointed out, these myriad calf- or ankle-grazing iterations of the milelong skirt bear no relation to “Big Love” or, for that matter, the Summer of Love.”read more

(AP)Gaultier exiting Hermes, Lacoste’s Lemaire enters

“Jean-Paul Gaultier is leaving high-end fashion house Hermes’ womenswear line, and Lacoste designer Christophe Lemaire is taking over as artistic director, the fashion company said Thursday. Gaultier will oversee the spring-summer 2011 collection to be revealed in 2010, and Lemaire will take over for the fall-winter 2011 collection, the Paris-based firm said in a statement. The move puts an end to “seven fruitful years of creative partnership” and allows Gaultier “to concentrate on his own projects,” the statement said. Much tamer and preppy than his own signature line, Gaultier’s collections for Hermes consistently garnered critical acclaim. ”This has been a marvelous adventure which has allowed me to learn about a new ‘savoir faire,’” said Gaultier. He said he’d maintain “a privileged relationship” with Hermes, which has a 45 percent stake in his own company, Jean-Paul Gaultier.” read more

(wsj)These Bags Cost a Lot!

“As shoppers begin to feel the recession lifting and tiptoe back into spending, some mall stores are seeing a small window of opportunity to woo them in a new way: big-ticket handbags. Talbots Inc. will line its shelves with a $425 python-embossed shoulder bag come fall. Teenybopper Abercrombie & Fitch Co.’s megastores now stock $300-and-up bags alongside the belts and flip-flops. And Ann Taylor Stores Corp. is offering new carryall totes for as much as $298. These pricey purses—which feel particularly pricey in stores like Ann Taylor, where the average price of an item sold last year was $38—are the latest incarnation of the accessory craze, which retailers seized on last year after clothing sales plummeted. Penny-pinching shoppers who took a pass on apparel instead snapped up jewelry as a quick way to update their wardrobes. Bags, like jewelry, don’t require a trip to the fitting room, and are more likely to be an impulsive, and emotionally satisfying, purchase.” read more

(wwd)J. Crew Profits Rise

“Driven by greater full-price selling and differ-entiated merchandise, J. Crew Group Inc. posted strong first-quarter results, with net income more than doubling to $44.7 million and comparable-store sales rising 15 percent. With the business continuing to be on a roll, the company raised guidance for fiscal 2010 earnings to $2.35 to $2.45 a diluted share, as compared with previous guidance of $2.20 to $2.30 and fiscal 2009 earnings per share of $1.91.  Also on Thursday, J. Crew opened its first bridal store, at 769 Madison Avenue in Manhattan, and launched madewell.com. And recently, J. Crew launched a partnership with the Net-a-porter fashion Web site, giving J. Crew instant presence in 170 countries as well as some indications where the U.S. retailer might consider international expansion in the future.” read more

wwd-Gucci Cruise 2011

(wwd)Gucci Cruise 2011

We love Gucci’s Cruise 2011 collection which is print heavy with overdyes, tiger stripes and a Military-Rocker feel.  click to see more pictures

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Men’s Spring 2011, Burton to Take Over at McQueen, Richemont Profits Fall, Theyskens New to Theory, Gaultier Leaves Hermes, AEO Profits Fall and Everyone is Over Sex and the City 2.

Calvin Klein jacket and pants, Burberry London shirt; Bottega Veneta tie; Emporio Armani sunglasses.

A Change in Seasons in Men’s Suits

“For spring 2011, suit vendors are once more celebrating American heritage by featuring the khaki suit as the ultimate ensemble for the season. Look for cotton suits and separates in a multitude of khaki shades in cropped silhouettes and softly constructed blazers.”

see more pictures

(wwd)Burton to Be Named Creative Director at McQueen

“Sarah Burton, the late Alexander McQueen’s trusted colleague, is set to be named creative director of the London-based fashion house, WWD has learned. Burton worked alongside McQueen on his women’s wear collection for more than a dozen years, and completed the fall collection after the designer’s suicide in February. Burton’s appointment should further solidify the future of the company. Shortly after McQueen’s death, Gucci Group vowed to keep the company open, saying the designer had set the “building blocks of a brand” that would allow the business to continue. However, Robert Polet, Gucci Group president and chief executive officer, declined to comment on any succession plan at the time.”

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(wwd)Richemont Sales, Profits Decline in Year

“Sales and profits may have declined last year at Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA, parent of brands including Cartier and Dunhill, but Johann Rupert, Richemont’s executive chairman and chief executive officer is decidedly optimistic about the next 12 months. On Thursday, the company said profits in the year to March 31 fell 18 percent to 603 million euro, or $850 million, due chiefly to currency translation losses on net financial assets. Sales, meanwhile, fell 4.5 percent to 5.18 billion euro, or $7.3 billion, due to a decline in spending worldwide and lower inventory levels during the recession.” read more

(boston.com)A genre that’s out of fashion

“After more than a decade of Patricia Field-designed costumes for films and TV series, the genre has been wrung out, like the last of Samantha Jones’s delicates on wash day. Which makes the arrival of “Sex and the City 2’’ perhaps the most anticlimactic sequel of the summer, and the reason I won’t be queued up tonight to see it alongside the ladies who smell of cranberry juice, vodka, and Sarah Jessica Parker’s Lovely Moments perfume. Didn’t everyone’s dreams already come true in the first film?” read more

(wwd)Olivier Theyskens to Design for Theory

“Theory is bringing Olivier Theyskens back to fashion. Theyskens will design a women’s capsule collection for the contemporary brand, which will bow for the spring-summer 2011 season. For Theyskens, one of the most revered designers, it will mark a return to fashion after stints at Rochas and Nina Ricci. Further details were unavailable at presstime.” read more

(businessweek)Hermes Says Jean-Paul Gaultier to Quit Fashion House

“French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier will step down as the artistic director of Hermes International SCA’s women’s ready-to-wear unit after seven years in the role. The 58-year-old French couturier, best known for designing the cone bra worn by singer Madonna on her 1990 Blond Ambition tour, will be replaced by Christophe Lemaire, Hermes said today in a statement. The spring-summer 2011 collection to be presented in October will be the last one created by Gaultier for Hermes. Gaultier’s exit marks the end of a formal arrangement that began when Jean-Louis Dumas, former president and chief executive officer of Hermes, signed the designer up to bring new blood to the maker of luxury handbags and silk ties. Dumas died this month at the age of 72.” read more

(wwd)AEO Profits Fall in First Quarter

“American Eagle Outfitters Inc. flew into pockets of turbulence in the first quarter, cutting profits in half, and said Wednesday it expects more choppy skies ahead. While heavy discounting and the cost of closing the Martin + Osa division took their toll on first-quarter results, a second-quarter earnings projection slightly below analysts’ expectations played a larger role in dropping shares of the Pittsburgh-based teen specialty retailer $2.57, or 16.7 percent, to $12.81. For the 13 weeks ended May 1, net income totaled $10.9 million, or 5 cents a share, compared with $22 million, or 11 cents, a year earlier. Stripping out charges from the closure of the 28-door Martin + Osa chain, adjusted profits amounted to 17 cents a share, matching analysts’ estimates.” read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

DKNY Resort, AE Profits Fall, Cathy Horyn on Ungaro, Burberry’s Profits Rise and Obama’s Trade Bill With Haiti.

DKNY

(wwd)DKNY Resort 2011

click to see more pictures

(wwd)American Eagle Profits Fall

“American Eagle Outfitters Inc. issued cautious guidance for the current quarter and said the closure of the Martin + Osa business weighed on first-quarter results. Net income was cut in half to $10.9 million, or 5 cents a share, compared with $22 million, or 11 cents a year ago. Excluding the charges and losses related to the shuttered Martin + Osa business, adjusted profits of 17 cents a share met Wall Street’s expectations. Citing weaker business trends, the retailer projected adjusted profits of 12 cents to 16 cents for the second quarter, falling short of the 21 cents analysts expected.” read more

(nyt)Cathy Horyn’s Take on Giles Deacon and Ungaro

“Ungaro may seem “a poisoned chalice,” as one of my fashion sisters in England called the Paris house, but this is an industry that dauntlessly recovers from bad taste. If my count is accurate, Giles Deacon is now the sixth ready-to-wear designer at Ungaro in the past decade (and I’m not counting the very brief and strange Lindsay Lohan episode). That’s a lot of designers trying to give a modern look to a label known for prints and a zesty femininity. Mr. Deacon is well liked and reasonably well known in England, where he started his business in 2003, and his clothes have a quirky elegance. But many young-uns have busted out since then and the world keeps changing daily. Fashion folks point to the success of Balenciaga and Balmain — very different businesses but examples nonetheless of old houses that have been re-energized.” read more

(wwd)Burberry Profits Rise to $131.5 Million

“Burberry Group plc said Wednesday profits in the year to March 31 rose to 82.2 million pounds, or $131.5 million, fuelled by a 6.5 percent spike in sales and a string of cost-efficiencies. Sales rose to 1.28 billion pounds, or $2.04 billion. The fastest growing category was non-apparel, which accounted for 36 percent of revenue. “Burberry has delivered record profits in what have been very challenging markets,” said chief executive Angela Ahrendts.” read more

(wwd)Obama Signs Haiti Trade Bill

“President Obama has signed into law a bill that almost triples the amount of apparel made in Haiti that can be shipped into the U.S. duty free. The bill is intended to help Haiti, the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere, rebuild after the devastating earthquake in January that disrupted the mainstay of its economy — the apparel and textile industry. The centerpiece of the legislation would increase the allowances of third-country fabric of knit and woven apparel to 200 million square meter equivalents from 70 million SMEs in each category. But it would also place sublimits of 85 million SMEs on the duty free benefits for certain high-volume knit apparel products and limits of 70 million SMEs for certain woven apparel products.”read more

Sex and the City: the business that keeps on giving.

 

It’s back. No, I’m not referring to my creepy ex boyfriend,  I am talking about the Sex and the City juggernut manifesting itself in the second instalment of the movie, Sex and the City 2.  A part from the welcomed spot light the movie has put on the fashion industry, the brand itself has generated millions of dollars for industries a lot less glamourous like tech, travel, beverages, automobiles, heck even internet web sites (Rent-a-bag web site Bag, Borrow, Steal got a significant lift in biz when Jennifer Hudson proclaimed her Louis Vuitton was NOT owned but RENTED). Vanity Fair created an extensive and complete list of product placement goers from the first movie, which included designer names like Dior, Ferragamo, DvF, and Hermes, techie names such as Apple, iPhone, Dell and Sprint and in the “Sips and Snacks” department, Starbucks, Pelligrino, Pret-a-Manger and Cup of Noodles, all to tune of $100 million and this isn’t including the total worldwide film and DVD gross which tops close $420 million.

New Line Cinema hasn’t confirmed the tie in deal they had with Apple for the last movie is officially severed,  but from the looks of it Hewlett Packard is stepping up with brand extension insanity (private screenings for bloggers to SJP with her own HP ad and who knows what’s to come in the movie since I haven’t seen it), as well as Mercedes Benz and probably an airline company given the foursome are traveling to Abu Dhabi by way of Morocco. And how much has HBO made from the “Sex and the City” frenzy? While they wouldn’t disclose the exact figure, HBO claims they have made “hundreds of millions of dollars” from the subscribers garnered from the show, to DVD sales and the sale of  syndication rights to TBS for $750,000 per episode. And let’s not forget the SATC Martini Shaker for $29.99. the “Miranda” Martini Glass for $14.99 or the SATC garment bag  for $29.99 that are selling out in the NYC store and online.  You hear that sound? That would be Candace Bushnell hitting her head against the wall (cosmo in hand) for selling the rights to SATC to HBO for a mere six figures in the early 90s. Hindsight’s always 20/20, peeps.

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Giles Deacon at Ungaro, Lindsey Lohan’s New Accessory, New Projects at LV, Textile Import Fraud, PVH Corp. and Tommy Hilfiger, Fashion on the Tennis Court.

Giles Deacon for Ungaro

(nymag)Emanuel Ungaro Hires Giles Deacon to Design

We are really hoping that after struggling for years with it’s so-so Creative Directors and designers, Ungaro has FINALLY made a good decision. “With the housekeeping finally complete and Lindsay Lohan and Estrella Archs tossed out like cigarette-burned leggings, Emanuel Ungaro has finally appointed a new designer: Giles Deacon. The designer — a designer first and foremost by profession, it must be noted — will stage a presentation at Paris Fashion Week in October, and probably another presentation for the following Fashion Week in March. He wants to really get his feet wet before hitting the runway — no slapdash ”I wasn’t aware of the nipple tassels on the girls until they were walking out” kinds of collections.” read more

(cbs)SCRAM Bracelet: Lindsay Lohan’s Newest Court Ordered Fashion Statement

What the heck is a “SCRAM” bracelet?

“Simply put, it’s “Secure Continuous Remote Alcohol Monitoring” or an alcohol monitoring device, like the one Lohan wore after her arrest on a DUI charge in 2007. The actress has been on probation since August 2007 after pleading guilty to misdemeanor drug charges and no contest to three driving charges. A judge ordered her to wear one today after her appearance in a Los Angeles courtroom over a missed probation hearing. You might recall she claimed she was stuck in Cannes after her passport was stolen last week.” read more

(wwd)Yves Carcelle Talks Retail Projects for Louis Vuitton

When asked by WWD in an interview on Tuesday, “what is the company’s bigger priority this year, opening stores or optimizing business in the existing stores?”,  Yves Carcelle, CEO say’s both. “It was clear there was a period when we needed to cover the planet as quickly as possible. I would say that in the last 10 years we really needed to conquer new countries where luxury was appearing. The desire for luxury design had become a worldwide desire. I think today we have already covered [the globe] quite well, but that doesn’t mean we don’t have new countries in our plan. This year, we opened our first stores in Lebanon, Poland and the Dominican Republic — that makes three new countries this year. We will open in three new cities in China — Nanning, Hohhot and Fuzhou — and some second stores in Chinese cities.” read more of the interview

(wwd)Congress Seeks Tougher Policing of Textile Import Fraud

“Congress will consider legislation to crack down on textile import fraud, which is battering the weakened domestic industry. Yarn spinners and denim fabric makers said they have suffered major damage from the increasing illegal activity that undercuts their $10.2 billion export business to Central America, Mexico and four Andean countries, all of which have duty preferences with the U.S… The Textile Enforcement and Security Act, sponsored by Reps. John Spratt (D., S.C.), Howard Coble (R., N.C.), Larry Kissell (D., N.C.) and Walter Jones (R., N.C.), is intended to close enforcement loopholes by placing additional Customs inspectors in Central America and Mexico, expanding penalties to more firms in the supply chain, decreasing the use of “blanket” affidavits that certify all imported products comply with U.S. rules and starting a verification system to track yarn and fabric in regions that have free trade agreements with the U.S.” read more

(wwd)Hilfiger Buy Weighs on PVH in Qtr.

Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. said Monday that it posted a first-quarter loss, hurt in part by expenses from the $3 billion purchase of Tommy Hilfiger and hedges to cover a portion of that euro-denominated acquisition. For the three months ended May 2, the net loss was $27.6 million, or 53 cents a diluted share, versus net income of $24.7 million, or 48 cents, in the year-ago quarter. Eliminating over $100 million in onetime costs related to the Hilfiger acquisition, earnings per share rose to positive territory, coming in at 83 cents, 4 cents higher than the consensus estimate of 79 cents. The Hilfiger transaction, in tandem with the earlier purchase of Calvin Klein, created a global powerhouse with two of the most recognized designer brands. “This extended brand portfolio and operating platform creates unique growth opportunities across additional geographies and product categories, which we are positioned to capitalize upon to drive future revenue and earnings growth as well as strong returns to our stockholders.” read more

(washington post)Williams Sisters Turn Heads with Fashion at the French Open

Fashionable tennis wear? I’m not quite sure the Williams sisters have it down yet… Here are some pictures of their most recent fashions on the court… what do you think?

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Velvet for Uniqlo


(wwd)Uniqlo in Tie-Up With Velvet Brand

“Set to hit Uniqlo’s 950 stores worldwide on June 17, the new venture, dubbed Uniqlo + Velvet, offers 14 jersey styles retailing from $15.90 to $19.90. Jenny Graham and Toni Spencer, the co-creative directors at Velvet, created four separate mini collections inspired by the Southern California lifestyle to appeal to Uniqlo’s diverse customer base. A group dubbed Hollywood Roosevelt features a black sleeveless top with a draped neckline and other slinky rayon pieces that can be worn on a night out, while a set called Venice Beach uses heather gray jersey in a racer-back tank dress accentuated with cotton voile. A cropped harem pant in gray cotton slub comes from a daytime-oriented batch called Point Dume, and lightweight Supima cotton is used for a cap-sleeve tunic in a set named Rodeo Drive.” read more

(wwd)Halston’s Night Owls: Brand Unveils Men’s Lines

“The company unveiled looks from its two Halston men’s lines in an exclusive to WWD, and the iconic American designer’s own personal style (and love of nightlife) clearly made a deep impression.” read more

(nyt)Rise and Shine | The Swarovski Award for Emerging Fashion Talent

“The CFDA awards are American fashion’s night to shine — this year, quite literally. Swarovski, the Austrian crystal juggernaut, has been a sponsor of the so-called fashion Oscars for almost a decade. But for the first time, the emerging talents nominated in the categories of menswear, womenswear and accessories have been asked to make a special piece for the evening incorporating Swarovski material. Most of the CFDA nominees — like the jewelry designer Dana Lorenz and the womenswear designers Joseph Altuzarra, Prabal Gurung and Alexander Wang (who bagged the women’s category last year and is currently up for accessories) are no strangers to the sparkly stuff, having worked with Swarovski in seasons past.” read more

(wwd)Penney’s Expects Claiborne Sales to Double

“J.C. Penney Co. Inc. thinks its designation as the exclusive retailer of Liz Claiborne merchandise could double its Claiborne business. Speaking after the annual meeting of shareholders at Penney’s headquarters here Friday, Myron E. “Mike” Ullman 3rd, chairman and chief executive officer, told WWD that within five years after its introduction at the firm’s stores this fall, Liz Claiborne could reap double the sales of Liz & Co., Penney’s top national brand. He declined to reveal Liz & Co.’s volume.” read more

(wwd)Tahari Names Three Executives

“To better serve the U.S. and global expansion, the company tapped Patricia Williamson as president of international sales. In the new post, Williamson will spearhead Tahari’s international sales for women’s and men’s wear as well as accessories. Most recently, Williamson was senior vice president and managing director of international at Collective Brands Inc., and prior to that, president of international alliances at Liz Claiborne Inc.

Tahari also named Dennis Wootten vice president of footwear and handbags, succeeding Joseph Campbell, who left the company to pursue other interests. Wootten joined from Prada USA, where he spent the past nine years, most recently as vice president of footwear. At Tahari, he will manage the shoe and handbag sales accounts and report directly to Helaine Elias, president of wholesale and merchandising.

The company also hired Jonathan Bergman as sales manager for the men’s line. Before joining Tahari in this newly created role, Bergman was director of sales for K-Swiss USA’s apparel division, and before that, a senior account executive at Hugo Boss. He reports to Elias.” read more

Ann Taylor Loft

(wwd)Ann Taylor Returns to Black

“AnnTaylor Stores Corp., propelled by strong response to spring fashions selling at full price, swung into the black for the first quarter and said the momentum is continuing.  On Friday, the company posted a $22.6 million net profit for the first quarter ended May 1 compared with a loss of $2.3 million in the year-ago period. The report followed the pattern seen in companies from Gap Inc. to Saks Inc., Macy’s Inc. to Target Corp. Many retailers have posted stellar first quarters, fueling perceptions of pent-up demand and better feelings among consumers about the economy, after last year’s debacle.” read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

President and Michelle Obama

(examiner)First Lady Wears Peter Soronen to State Dinner

“At the White House, First Lady Michelle Obama wore a stunning gown by designer Peter Soronen. Looking absolutely amazing, the First Lady along with President Obama welcomed the President of Mexico Felipe Calderon and his spouse, Margarita Zavala to the dinner. The dress, a shimmering blue was a one shoulder strap outfit. Complimented by a thick silver belt and layers of chiffon the gown really appeared to sparkle. This is not the first gown Peter Soronen has designed for Mrs Obama. She also wore another of his designs at the Presidential Balls (which can be seen on display in New York City. An honor for designers who find major exposure when their gowns are worn.” read more

(Washington Post)In grand fashion…

It’s like a real-life Thomas Crown Affair, if only the thief were a charming and witty Pierce Brosnan. But really, how is this possible with all the security we have to go through nowadays?  ”A lone thief in Paris made off with five masterpieces in a daring midnight break-in at the Musee d’Art Moderne in Paris early Thursday. The perpetrator took works by Picasso, Matisse and Braque that were conservatively valued at $125 million but are otherwise of incalculable worth. Paris Mayor Bertrand Delanoë said in a statement, “I am saddened and shocked by this theft, which is an intolerable assault on Paris’s universal cultural heritage.” read more

(Reuters)LVMH says has no plans to sell Kenzo

“LVMH  said it had no plans to sell Kenzo, denying a report in Les Echos that said the luxury group was looking for potential buyers for the loss-making fashion brand. The newspaper estimated the fashion house’s annual sales to be around 150 million euros ($186 million). Kenzo, unlike many fashion brands, still runs its cosmetics and perfume operations in-house. ”LVMH has no plans to sell Kenzo,” a spokesman for LVMH said on Friday.” read more



(the Frisky)The Best And Worst Of Fashion Industry Songs

Ever wonder why everyone in the Fashion Industry that makes it big, for some reason MUST release a song? Well from Heidi Montag, to Kate Moss, to Gwen Stefani, there are some good ones and some “how were they even allowed out of the recording studio” ones.  Here is the list of Best and Worst Songs

Sarah Jessica Parker: Style Icon Through The Years

We hate to beat this Fashion News like a dead horse, but here is an article about SJP’s style in light of the new Sex in the City movie. We are still not sure why Abu Dhabi was the chosen destination. (Fun fact: SATC2 was actually shot in Morocco) Here is the piece with lots of picture of SJP through the years. read more

WASP’s not dead: Kate Spade makes preppy chic again

Years ago (oh, I would say about twelve years to be exact) I got my first Kate Spade bag. It was a black square tote and took me two and half months of intern pay to scrape together the cash for it. But omg, I will never forget the feeling of throwing my books, wallet, flip flops, snacks, scarf, sunglasses with room for so much more over my shoulder and whizzing around New York City.

I felt so… NYC.

Cut to May of 2010, when in to the Kate Spade 5th Ave store for a random visit. I wouldn’t describe my style to be anything but rocker profesh (skull jewelry, dark nail polish, rivited boots and skinny jeans all have permanent places in my closet), but somehow this Connecticut preppy WASP chic drew me in like a magpie to shiny things. Hello bedazzled, jewel encrusted shift dress! %$^&*(! flats with brightly colored pom poms! AND wow, am I really drooling over this 1960s (early) style lucite bead necklace?? I felt like I was an intern again. In a good way.

A couple of weeks ago I met with Bill McComb, president and ceo of Liz Claiborne. As he showed me and a colleague how LIZ was at one point just a bunch of brand silos and now (under his direction) departments finally talk to each other, I finally grasped what the company was trying to do with their brands. Cut to The 1Q earnings call on May 10th where McComb pointed out how Kate Spade along with Lucky Brand Jeans, MEXX and Juicy Couture have been seeing continued momentum with Kate Spade and Lucky Brand Jeans reporting positive retail comps. McComb expects this momentum to continue into 2Q.

What’s helped the Kate Spade brand so much? Definitely the re-design of the flagship store on 5th Ave. (the stripes on the front of the store were design overkill), but credit really belongs to Deborah Lloyd who took over as creative director and co- president when Kate and Andy Spade left in 2007. No more wicker blah handbags. So long brightly colored no shape skirts and dresses. The iconic tote which made Kate Spade a household name and staple for all counterfeit stands in Chinatown? Gone. Instead the store as well as the products exude a WASP/ prep lifestyle that in the past I would have sprinted far away from, now taps into my whole Jackie O obsession. According to McComb, “the Kate Spade customer is well defined. She knows exactly who she is and how her clothes represent those ideals.” If those ideals mean I can pretend I vacation in Newport, Rhode Island, attended Miss Porters and have a politico husband who went to Harvard, when I throw on a dress I’ll for sure take it!

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

American Apparel Struggles, Target’s Profits Rise, Designers and Digital Prints, Lucky’s new CEO and A Tour of The CFDA Incubator

American Apparel

(wwd)American Apparel Facing New Credit Crisis

“Shares of the Los Angeles-based retailer fell more than 40 percent Wednesday after it said it does not expect to be in compliance with a covenant covering debt to adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization under a credit agreement with Lion Capital as of June 30. The firm based the projection on “existing trends” and results for the first quarter ended March 31.  London-based Lion provided American Apparel with $80 million in financing in March 2009, allowing it to pay off a $51 million loan from SOF Investment, an arm of computer tycoon Michael S. Dell’s MSD Investments. American Apparel said it is working with the lender to amend the agreement, but could provide “no assurances” it would obtain appropriate amendments prior to the anticipated covenant default.”  read more

(wsj)Are You Wearing a Watercolor?

“Presenting high fashion—now brought to you by inkjet printer. The stores and runways this spring are full of clothes with intricate prints—not just flowers but unique, often enigmatic designs resembling artwork. Behind this profusion of patterns is a familiar piece of technology: a printer not unlike the one sitting on your desk.” We love that designers can take inspiration and images directly from nature and with digital technology,  instantly turn it into the most beautiful printed fabric.  read more

(wwd)Target 1st-Qtr. Profits Gain 28.5%

“Customers “are putting well-considered discretionary items back in their baskets,” said Kathryn Tesija, executive vice president of merchandising. “They are indulging while feeling smart in their decisions. We’re seeing this trend particularly in home and apparel. Both men and women are freshening up their casual wardrobes and picking up new shoes and accessories for spring.” For the quarter ended May 1, Minneapolis-based Target reported net income of $671 million, compared with $522 million in the same year-ago quarter.” read more

(wwd)New Lucky Brand CEO
Seeks Sharper Focus

“Four months after joining Lucky, DeMattei is applying his 25 years of retail experience gained at Williams-Sonoma, J. Crew, Gap and Banana Republic to turn Lucky around.
His first order of business is to entice shoppers with snazzy display windows that show off jeans selling for less than $119. Second, he plans to do more direct marketing to the 500,000 customers in Lucky’s database with e-mail blasts and catalogues. Third, all Lucky stores will begin using a new computerized replenishment system that will help them restock popular styles more quickly. Last, and perhaps most important, he plans to focus intensely on product and merchandise management. DeMattei is reducing the number of graphic T-shirts, increasing the number of women’s styles by 30 percent and expanding offerings for woven tops, sweaters, dresses, skirts and jackets.” read more

(wwd/style.com)CFDA Fashion Incubator Is Ready to Go

“The incubator was launched by the Council of Fashion Designers of America with Mayor Michael Bloomberg in partnership with Newmark Holdings and the New York City Economic Development Corp. The initiative consists of a full floor at 209 West 38th Street, where 12 up-and-coming designers have taken two-year leases for studios at rents from $1,000 to $2,000 — far below the market rate for space so centrally located in the Garment District. It also provides mentorship from industry professionals.” read more