(nypost)Are you linked to Anna Chapman?

Being in Fashion, we decided to see if we had any sort of degree of separation to Anna Chapman aka Russian Spy, Anya Kuschenko (see today’s cover of the NYPost) We did! turns out we are linked via the social networking site ASmallWorld. Or could you be connected via Linkedin? Who knows maybe it was Anna you chatted with at the Rag and Bone Party last season…

(telegraph)Price of luxury rises despite the recession

“In 2008 to 2009 the cost of high-end goods and services plummeted by nearly 4 per cent. An Affluent Luxury Living Index has reported that for the following financial year prices rose by 0.6 per cent on average. Some individual products have seen far greater price inflation. The cost of Beluga caviar and fine wines fell by about eight per cent in 2008 but the latest figures show that in the past year Beluga cavier has risen by 24.1 per cent while wine has inflated by up to 31.8 per cent. Meanwhile the cost of artworks, a box at the Royal Opera House and a 24-hour concierge service have increased by 15.2 per cent in the last year after falling by 20.5 per cent at the start of the recession. This is partly due to some record art auction results in the last year. ”Investments of passion” such as, Aston Martins, Range Rovers, designer jewellery and watches, increased in cost by 5 per cent according to the new research. However, the cost of private jets, a chauffeur service and exclusive hotels in resorts such as St Tropez have only become 0.6 per cent more expensive in the 2009 to 2010. There was some good news for the super-rich however. The cost of a full-time housekeeper, Westminster School fees, Botox and rent for a family home in Kensington and Chelsea actually fell by 5.6 per cent in the last year. This is because fewer executives are being recruited to work in London while many have left leading to a decrease in demand. The Affluent Luxury Living Index was compiled by Stonehage which provides financial advice for ultra-wealthy families. It does not disclose the actual prices.” read more

(wwd)Bill Simon Named CEO of Wal-Mart U.S.

“Following four consecutive quarters of declines in domestic same-store sales, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Tuesday replaced the head of its U.S. operation, Eduardo Castro-Wright, with the unit’s chief operating officer, Bill Simon. Simon will assume Castro-Wright’s role as president and chief executive officer of Wal-Mart U.S. Castro-Wright will remain vice chairman of the corporation and take on the previously vacant role of president and ceo of Global.com and Global Sourcing, working out of Global.com’s California offices. Global.com was formed in January and had reported to Castro-Wright. A successor for Simon has yet to be named. Simon will report, and Castro-Wright will continue to report, to Wal-Mart president and ceo Mike Duke. “As we continue to become a truly global company and address the business challenges of a rapidly changing world, it is clear that Global.com and Global Sourcing are critical to our future growth and success,” Duke said, explaining Castro-Wright’s move to California will allow him to be with his family following his wife Fabiola’s recent heart transplant. Despite speculation the management shake-up had more to do with weakness in the Bentonville, Ark.-based firm’s U.S. business than Castro-Wright’s personal life, J.P. Morgan analyst Charles Grom said that after speaking with management he believed the change in roles was a decision “made by” Castro-Wright for family reasons. While Tuesday’s move surprised many, it did not send shock waves through the investment community. Saying her firm was “not surprised” by Castro-Wright’s new role and location, Citi broadlines analyst Deb Weinswig said, “We have been impressed with Bill Simon’s trajectory at Wal-Mart and the impact he has made on the U.S. business.…We also believe he is very in tune with the U.S. grocery landscape, and he will take Wal-Mart U.S. to the next level.” read more

(nypost)New Yorkers Beware: Catwoman on the Loose

“Cameras captured the sleek-looking crook prance into the high end shoe shop about 1 p.m., wearing the mask as she browsed among the heels for about a half hour before calmly marching up to the counter, where she handed a note to a cashier and kept her hand inside her purse, all the while, unsuspecting shoppers passed in and out of the store. In the video she can clearly be scene snatching the cash from the employees hand and stuffed it into her purse then grabbed the note before calmly strutting out the door, escaping with just $86, police said. The brazen theft prompted police to release a sketch of the suspect, donning a mask with cat like features, complete with whiskers, ears and a button nose. The same female bandit has been linked to two other robberies in Queens but this time wearing a more bizarre disguise. One Friday, a woman with her head wrapped in a back scarf and only here amber eyes exposed, walked into the Body Shop on Austin Street, just five blocks from the 112th Precinct stationhouse in Forrest Hills and slipped the same threatening note a cashier. She walked away with $500. She is also a suspect in the robbery of a 9 West shoe store on Austin Street on April 23, last year. She wore the same black scarf to conceal her identity and escaped with $500, police said. The suspect is believed to be a middle eastern woman, in her 20′s about 5-foot-7 inches tall and she weighs about 120 pounds, said police.” read more

Alexander McQueen Resort 2011

“It’s too early to tell what the future holds for Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, but from the look of her first collection for pre-spring, the vista is promising indeed. Case in point: the strapless and draped printed chiffon in red and black — a stunner. Inspired by Hans Bellmer’s dolls and samurai warriors, Burton said she wanted to “juxtapose the pale and the delicate with the bold and armorial. It’s about a highly structured torso that gives way to a more fluid silhouette or drop waists that lead to a finned trouser or skirt.” Materials include lacquered raffia, hand-worked lace, wool crepe and silk — in pinks and white with flashes of red, mint green and gold.”

Prada Cruise 2011

“It is celebratory, charming and accessorized to a fare-thee-well — Miuccia Prada’s sophisticated cruise lineup at Prada, that is. Many of the looks give a gypsy-caravan dimension to the idea of Sunday best. Dresses, perennial favorites here, turn up in appealing variations from ruffled, floral-print versions in bold, zesty prints that nodded to the Thirties to sleek black styles shown with colorful accessories — all presented in postcardlike country settings depicting imaginary landscapes. The vivid costume jewelry is made from methacrylate, a lightweight glasslike material. Shoes include platforms and pumps with faux-coral or beaded embellishments and ballerina flats that tied around the ankles, while the bags are fashioned from canvas and exotic skins, or mixes of the two.”

Chado Ralph Rucci Resort 2011

“Ralph Rucci has dropped some of his signature details for what he says is “a more relaxed, fun resort mood.” He shows soft satin sarong skirts and simple little tops, lots of color and even a perfect white cotton piqué shirt. His elegant side is here, too, reflected in lean, lightweight wool dresses and suits. But this collection, as Rucci calls it, is “Chado light.”

(stylelist)Jean Paul Gaultier and La Perla Lingerie Collaboration – Brilliant!

“It was only a matter of time before Jean Paul Gaultier went legit when it comes to his lingerie designs – after all, it’s only been almost 30 years since he first dabbled in ladies under things.  The French designer chose esteemed lingerie house La Perla as his partner for the collection, which will be available in November at select La Perla and Gaultierboutiques, and select department stores. “Lingerie is part of my DNA and of my heritage,” Gaultiersaid in a press release. ”In my latest prêt-à-porter collection I revisited the conical bras and corsets worn as outerwear. This collaboration was a natural and logical step, especially since La Perla is the pearl of the lingerie, with the best savoir faire.” ”Cooperating with Jean Paul Gaultier filled us with satisfaction from the very start,” Alain Prost, La Perla’s C.E.O., said in a release. ”A perfect synergy immediately came to light between his vision and the values of luxury and elegance that have always been cornerstones in La Perla’s history.” Two special, limited-edition pieces – a backstitch satin bra with a shoulder-strap motif and a garter belt – will make their debut at Gaultier’s July 7 haute couture show in Paris.” read more

(wwd)Retailers Slow to Launch Mobile Commerce

“Nearly two-thirds of apparel, accessories and footwear retailers either don’t have a mobile-commerce strategy in place or are just getting started on one, according to a study on “The State of Online Retailing” released today by Forrester Research Inc. and Shop.org, the National Retail Federation’s digital division.  Fifteen percent of the 26 apparel, accessories and footwear retailers included in the study said they had no mobile strategy, and another 50 percent said their strategy was at an early stage or just being developed. Nineteen percent said they had a strategy in place and were implementing or refining it, 12 percent said they had a strategy and were starting work on implementing it and 4 percent simply said they had a strategy.  Among the 84 online retailers overall, 20 percent said they were implementing or refining an existing strategy, 10 percent said they were starting work on implementation and 8 percent said they had a strategy, versus 36 percent that were in the early stages of developing a strategy and 26 percent that didn’t have a strategy at the present time.  Reflective of their larger size and sense of urgency about mobile commerce, general merchandisers were the furthest along of the five retail “verticals” studied, with 36 percent boasting of having already implemented a strategy and working on refining it. Along similar lines, general merchandisers have earmarked $490,000 for mobile investment this year versus an average of $65,000 for apparel, accessories and footwear retailers. Beauty and personal care retailers plan to invest $203,000 in mobile this year, on average, while sporting goods retailers have budgeted $127,000. Only home retailers, at $25,000, plan to invest less in mobile than the apparel-related specialty merchants. The average for all retailers in the study was $170,000.” read more

(wwd)Prince Harry Gets Royal Treatment at Governors Island

“It’s not everyday an authentic royal prince mounts a horse and plays a polo match in the middle of New York City, so the enthusiasm of the crowds that gathered at Governors Island (just off the tip of Manhattan) on Sunday afternoon to watch Britain’s Prince Harry compete against Nacho Figueras in the third annual Veuve Cliquot Polo Classic was understandable. Despite the sweltering climes—the mercury rose well above the ninety degree mark—scores of revelers—some VIPs, most hoi polloi (the event was open and free to the public) gamely donned festive chapeaus and seersucker shorts and boarded ferries from the financial district to the fields. (Further evidence this was not your typical American sporting event: elegant flutes of the sponsor’s Champagne, rather than Big Gulps of brewski, were hawked at concession stands.)” While this year’s celeb turn out—Val Kilmer, Mary J Blige—paled in comparison to last year’s—Kate Hudson and Madonna (arguably one of the only stars who could upstage an HRH)—there was still no shortage of entertainment: Namely, Harry’s head-first tumble off his horse during a pivotal moment in the game, which drew a collective gasp from the crowd. But, for the royal, who continued to play after his spill, it was presumably worth it: festivities, which also included an exclusive tented luncheon before the match, raised funds for American Friends of Sentebale, the U.S. chapter of the charity he founded to support children in AIDs-stricken parts of Africa. What’s more, Harry, whose team ultimately lost, managed even to score a goal—though the play wasn’t exactly a highlight for everyone. “They let Harry score a goal, did they?,” quipped one skeptical onlooker. “That was nice of them.” read more

(bloomberg)Harrods, Liberty Follow Saks in Creating Own-Brand Fashion to Revive Sales

“Harrods Ltd., the iconic London department store that sells diamond-encrusted Bulgari SpA sunglasses, Yves Saint Laurent scents and DKNY bags, is now banking on the brand its customers know best.  The retailer plans to create in-store shops for Harrods- branded clothing and accessories by 2012, making it the latest high-end department store to bet its name can spur sales and profit after the luxury industry’s worst-ever year. As luxury-goods makers Burberry Group Plc and Prada SpA cut their dependence on third-party distributors by opening outlets, department stores are filling selling space with their own brands. Saks Inc.’s revamped men’s collection is set to become the New York store’s largest men’s wear brand. With lower prices than mainstream luxury brands, retailers’ labels can appeal to customers who are more price-sensitive after the recession. “Department stores realize that their most valuable asset is their own name,” said Umberto Angeloni, co-owner of Italian suitmaker Raffaele Caruso SpA, which also manufactures private- label tailored clothing for retailers. At Harrods, the range of men’s clothing and accessories will be positioned as an alternative to a brand like Brioni Roman Style SpA, the Italian maker of $5,000 suits, Jason Broderick, general merchandise manager, said in an interview. The retailer, acquired last month by Qatar Holding LLC for 1.5 billion pounds ($2.3 billion), foresees a “substantial” part of future sales coming from its own brand, Broderick said. Private-label fashion is “a growing part of our business with huge potential,” he said. read more

(wwd)M&A Forges Ahead Despite Uncertainty

“Forget the cranky consumer and schizophrenic investor. Global retail mergers and acquisitions are on the rebound — for now — and Europe is the center of attention. Dealmakers have been pulling billions from their coffers for the right companies, and the questionable U.S. recovery, the European debt meltdown and stock markets’ gyrations are being seen more as potholes than roadblocks. Deep-pocketed investment funds are trying to snatch up quickly growing brands on the cheap, and strategic acquirers are looking to transform and win the postrecession consumer. Already this year, the value of global acquisitions of apparel manufacturers, as well as apparel and shoe, jewelry and department stores jumped 133 percent to $11.28 billion, according to Dealogic. And Europe led the way despite questions about the viability of the euro and sovereign finances. Europe rang up $6.98 billion worth of deals in the four sectors this year, even excluding BCBG Max Azria Group and Nicolas Berggruen’s agreement to buy Karstadt Department Store Group, which is technically a holding company and not considered a retail transaction by Dealogic.  The global retail M&A dollar figure advanced despite a decline in the number of deals to 207 from 280 at this time last year, indicating companies are starting to take bigger bets as they consider combinations.” read more

(fashion’scollective)Luxury Department Stores on Twitter

“As a Twitter fanatic, it’s been interesting to watch as more and more luxury brands and retailers get on the “Twitter train.” In particular, I like checking out how the department stores (amidst their complex organizations) are innovating in this space. Unfortunately, not all have gotten on board, but there are a few clear standouts. Of particular note is Bergdorf Goodman, who despite a very limited retail footprint (2 stores if you count the Manhattan womens and mens stores separately) now have a larger Twitter following than Bloomingdale’s! The key to Bergdorf’s success in this arena has been in the cheery, loquacious personality of the Bergdorf teams’ Tweeter(s). Taking a look at the sheer number of tweets they’ve put out (5,032 as of this posting), especially as compared to “heavyweight” Nordstrom, shows how engaging they are. Barney’s continues to shine with a very strong follower base, but why don’t they make better use of their highly-entertaining Creative Director, Simon Doonan. I have no doubt he would quickly draw a lot of new fans. Twitter newcomer, Saks Fifth Avenue, is off to a good start but is going to have to step up their game and offer a more unified voice if they don’t want to get lost amongst their more chatty competitors.” read more

Akris, Chloé and Gaultier Resort 2011 Collections, Fendi vs. Filenes, Father’s Day Retail Wrap-up and McQueen’s Farewell Collection.

Akris Resort 2011

“Albert Kriemler looks to Capri and the style of Brigitte Bardot’s character in Jean-Luc Godard’s 1963 film “Le Mépris” for inspiration this season. Working with photo prints, the designer brings scenic images of the island to life in crisp shirtdresses, easy scarfs and quirky pants. For the serious Akris customer, he focuses on sharp tailored suits, cool asymmetric tops and stylish wide-leg trousers — all with a modern minimalism.”

Chloé Cruise 2011

“Hannah MacGibbon is playing sports for Chloé pre-spring, adding scuba, judo and motorcycle elements to a slightly retro lineup in her favorite neutrals — cream, beige and khaki. There are little kimono jackets, while zip-waist leather pants with knee patches are worn with a feminine silk blouse. Decorative details include whipstitching and raffia embroidery.”

Jean Paul Gaultier Cruise 2011

For pre-spring, the globe-trotting designer takes a fashion tour of North Africa, melding ethnic touches with Parisian chic and his inimitable humor. Looks range from an A-line trenchcoat paired with fluid harem pants to a military jacket and pants revved up with racy corset lacing in back. Gaultier also takes a detour down trompe l’oeil lane, layering three jackets into one or wedding a military shirt to a corset dress.

(wwd)Fendi Wins Settlement in Filene’s Case

“Fendi has settled a counterfeiting lawsuit against the former Filene’s Basement operation for $2.5 million, although other related lawsuits against different parties are still in progress. According to Michael Burke, Fendi’s chief executive officer, many of the lawsuits, such as one against Burlington Coat Factory Warehouse, originate from the alleged illegal activities of Ashley Reed Trading Inc. and its owners, Scott and James Ressler. The lawsuits against Ashley Reed and the Resslers were filed both in the U.S. and in Italy, according to Burke.
“It is trickier to go after the importer than after the final retailer. The importer has no assets here, as it mostly operates offshore,” Burke said. He added the investigation surrounding the alleged Ashley Reed counterfeiting operation took time to track. “Our impression is that a great majority [of it] was manufactured in China, shipped to Italy and transshipped to the U.S. with fake invoices using fake business cards,” Burke said.
In the Burlington case, Fendi was awarded a $4.7 million contempt judgment in February. According to a court document, Burlington and co-defendant Cohoes Fashions Inc. had violated a 1987 injunction that prohibits Burlington from purchasing or selling any Fendi-branded product without prior permission. Fendi is still awaiting a decision on damages on its counterfeiting claims. As for the Filene’s Basement case, which also included as co-defendant Retail Ventures Inc., its parent when the lawsuit was filed in 2006, Fendi expects to receive its $2.5 million by the end of the month, which will be paid from Filene’s bankruptcy estate. In addition, both parties are barred from selling Fendi product without Fendi’s written permission. Filene’s was sold to Syms Corp. following bankruptcy. The sole nameplate left under RVI’s umbrella is DSW Inc. Executives at RVI and Burlington could not be reached for comment by press time Monday. Gerard Dunne, attorney for Ashley Reed and the Resslers in the lawsuit filed in Manhattan federal court, said, “The court found six bags that were counterfeit over thousands sold over the years. The goods are gray-market goods — legitimate goods sold outside of the U.S. and shipped here. Most of our goods are from duty free shops and Fendi outlets in Italy. We don’t believe they were counterfeit.” According to Fendi’s Burke, the amount of money spent annually to monitor counterfeiting activity is in the “seven digits.” “We have people in Brussels, Washington, Beijing at the LVMH level, and Fendi itself has staff in Hong Kong, Rome, New York, Paris and Tokyo providing additional monitoring,” he said. “Add all that up and we’re talking 30 to 40 people, which doesn’t include prosecution, which [comes under] a separate budget.”

(vogue)Noble Farewell: McQueen’s Final Collection

“Quintessentially McQueen, his final, magisterial collection was a poignant coda to a career characterized by ceaseless invention, curiosity, and lightning flashes of absolute brilliance. The collection was presented in a stately room of white and gold Louis XV boiserie, in what was once the hôtel particulier of the noble Clermont-Tonnerre family. The models appeared one by one, to the hauntingly beautiful accompaniment of Henry Purcell’s Dido and Aeneas (the music that McQueen had been listening to as he created this collection). Their faces were powdered by Peter Philips as wan as van Eyck Madonnas, their heads were bound by Guido Palau like medieval wimples and crowned with bristling Mohican plumes, and they struck attitudes that recalled the iconic images of the Byzantine empress Theodora.” read more

(wwd)Retailers Buoyed by Strong Father’s Day

“Shoppers turned out for Father’s Day, lifting the spirits of retailers and affording them the opportunity to meet or exceed plan. Tailored clothing and dress shirts, along with knitwear, were among the bestsellers for most stores, stoking further confidence that the upcoming fall season will be healthy. “It was a little better than we anticipated,” said Lou Amendola, chief merchandising officer for Brooks Brothers. “Business was strong during the week leading up to Father’s Day and much stronger than in the past when it has been a Friday to Saturday event.” The bulk of the business came from the stores rather than the Internet, he noted. Among the top performers, he said, were tailored clothing and neckwear, both of which posted “nice increases over the previous year.” Although ties are an expected gift item, the strength of clothing was unusual. “It was a bit of a surprise,” he said. Knitwear was also a standout. Although its semiannual sale kicked off Monday, Brooks Bros. ran some one-day specials in the weeks before Father’s Day to draw traffic. “It wasn’t about the item that was on sale,” he said. “It was more of a way to draw them into the store.” And the strategy worked. “Customers did come out and shop,” Amendola added. “We exceeded plan, and in this day and age, that’s exactly what we want.” As a result, he is optimistic about the future. “It tells me consumers are interested in shopping again. They’re still uncertain, but unlike before, when they were unwilling to shop, now, when it comes to the 11th hour, they’ll get out and shop.” read more

The Row Resort 2011

“Clean lines with athletic elements sum up Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s resort lineup for The Row. The high-quality fabrics and imaginative details give the collection an austere yet luxurious feel — as in a double-face chiffon maxidress with angled stitching at the bottom or a ribbed, washed cashmere skirt and pullover that look simple but have plenty of tactile appeal.”

Vera Wang Resort 2011

“An architectural current courses through Vera Wang’s resort collection, grounding her signature languid, layered silhouette in smoky grays and rich jewel tones. Winding seams and asymmetric cuts have a relaxed, artsy effect on the strong knitwear — filmy cardigans and jersey T-shirts — and silk shorts, while sculptural rosettes and a bustier with a molded peplum provide a structured counterpoint to the long and lean.”

(wwd)Google Launches Retail Search Product

“Google on Thursday released Version 2.0 of a service that it hopes the nation’s top 1,000 retailers will use to power the searches on their e-commerce sites. Unlike most competing search products, Google Commerce Search is a cloud service, so it can be set up and customized relatively quickly, and performance will not vary even during unusually busy times such as holidays and sales, according to the company.
“A good search technology dramatically improves conversion rates because users find what they are looking for,” said Google senior product manager Nitin Mangtani. For example, retailer DiscountOfficeItems.com experienced a 6 percent increase in sales revenue a few weeks after adopting the first version, which made its debut in November. Version 2.0 comes with a dashboard through which retailers can easily and quickly customize searching and browsing on their sites. For example, merchants can set up menus with categories of their choice, such as denim, tops, brands, dresses under $99 or pencil skirts. If retailers want to promote certain types of items — latest arrivals, sale or private label, for example — they can arrange to have those show up first on search results. They can also create an endless number of special promotions that automatically start and end on dates of their choosing. No coding is required.”

(wsj)Keeping It Masculine

Dolce & Gabbana Explain Why Men Favor Style Over Fashion

“Over the past 20 years, Messrs. Dolce and Gabbana have built one of the biggest and most successful men’s businesses by navigating the fine line between style and fashion. “Women are into fashion, men are into style,” said Mr. Dolce, in between fittings for the 20th anniversary runway collection. “Style is forever.”

The difference between the two meant a striped linen jacket and a silk blouse didn’t make the cut from the new collection, whose motto — “Sensual, Sartorial, Sicilian” — marks a return to the brand’s roots. A nautical theme permeated the looks that made the cut, from the sailing rope Mr. Dolce stranded through belt loops to a rugged beige fisherman’s sweater. Dolce & Gabbana’s show kicks off Milan men’s fashion week, which runs from June 19 to 22.” read more

(wwd)Rodarte Wins Cooper-Hewitt Award

“Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy planned to celebrate their 2010 Cooper-Hewitt National Design Award for Fashion Design win by commandeering the jukebox Thursday night at their favorite Los Angeles hangout. The sisters outperformed Behnaz Sarafpour and Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for the honor. The Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum will present an array of Design awards at an Oct. 14 gala at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York. “This is such a big deal because there is always the question [of] if you approach to design in an artistic way and whether you view your work as art,” Laura Mulleavy said. “It is amazing to have a community you are not always part of recognize your work.” As for Thursday’s celebration, she said, “The Lakers are playing tonight and they have kind of taken over our town, so we will probably just take over the jukebox at this little place we like to go to. And then, of course, we will just get back to work.” Other honorees include Stephen Doyle for Communication Design, Kiernan Timberlake for Architectural Design, William Sofield for Interior Design, Lisa Strausfeld for Interactive Design, Ralph Caplan for Design Mind, Jane Thompson for Lifetime Achievement and the U.S./Green Building Council for Corporate and Institutional Investment. First Lady Michelle Obama is honorary patron of the event, which is made possible in part by Bloomberg and Procter & Gamble. Target will once again sponsor National Design Week, which will run Oct. 9 to 17. Rodarte is a familiar name to the Cooper-Hewitt. During fashion week in February, a Quicktake exhibition of Rodarte’s designs was staged in the Upper East Side museum.”