Happy Monday!

(Style.com)A Guide to Neon

If you’ve ever wondered how exactly to pull off wearing an electric green watch or glowing orange silk top, here is Style.com’s guide to wearing neon this summer. Personally we love the Roarke braided bracelets. Perfect for stacking and so cool for the summer!

Louis Vuitton Cruise 2011

“A little bit Lolita” was how Louis Vuitton style director Julie de Libran described Marc Jacobs’ resort lineup. That means retro, ultrafeminine clothes, with prints of fruit vines and peonies worked onto flouncy skirts, and bows adorning cinch-waisted shorts and trousers. It isn’t all flou and frou, however: There is louche glamour in the cool striped silk blouses and solid suede jackets, and a chic ease to the dresses, particularly a pale pink and cream-trimmed bouclé number with a gentle full skirt.

Lanvin Cruise 2011

“Declaring that women should “have it all,” Alber Elbaz loads Lanvin’s cruise collection with transformable clothes, many with stretch properties and all of them chic. Swimwear is a new category, and draped maillots morph into what Elbaz calls “robes de yacht,” thanks to matching short skirts. Black chemise dresses for day shelter linings of draped tulle or ruffled chiffon, reversing with one zip into fetching cocktail wear.”

(wwd)Teen Retailers Hit by Fashion Shift

“Specialty stores catering to fickle 13- to 19-year-olds are struggling as these consumers grow tired of the Americana and surf-and-skate fashions they’ve long snapped up and search for a new look — even if they’re not quite sure what that look might be. Their ennui is setting off alarm bells over the crucial back-to-school season even as schools let out for the summer.

Not only is demand soft, but competition is growing. Fast-fashion retailers such as H&M, Zara and Forever 21 are gaining momentum since their looks change every six weeks or less, and mass merchants are picking up market share, as well. According to Hana Ben-Shabat, a partner in the retail practice at the A.T. Kearney consulting firm, between 4 and 6 percent of teens last year shifted from shopping at specialty stores to shopping at mass merchants and discounters.

Part of this is being driven by the hangover from the recession — and continued high unemployment. That means teens don’t have money to spend on new clothes, and nor, in many cases, do their parents. Apparel spending, which had averaged 50 percent of teens’ discretionary purchases in 2008, fell to 40 percent last year.” read more

(LATimes) Tony Awards Fashion 2010

“Rain couldn’t deter the good cheer on the red carpet Sunday in New York, as Broadway celebrated its biggest night, the Tony Awards. The night was perhaps a bit more glam than in previous years, as Hollywood seemed to move East for the evening. Radiant in green, Scarlett Johansson, nominated for “A View From the Bridge,” waved to the crowd, gathered outside Radio City Music Hall.  Her costar and fellow nominee Liev Schreiber arrived with  Naomi Watts. Catherine Zeta-Jones, nominated for “A Little Night Music,” was glowing in a powder blue gown.

Hamming it up on the carpet was Green Day – Mike Dirnt, Billie Joe Armstrong and Tre Cool — whoseshow “American Idiot” is up for best musical. Among the others making the trek includedDaniel Radcliffe,who appeared in “Equus” on Broadway in 2008; Antonio Banderas, star of  “Nine” in 2003, and wife Melanie Griffith, who appeared “Chicago” that same year; and Bebe Newirth, a star of “The Addams Family” musical. And, of course, the nominees of the evening were looking their best as they headed into the hall:Laura Linney, up for “Time Stands Still”; Christopher Walken, star of  “A Behanding in Spokane”;  grand dame of theater Angela Lansbury, nominated for “A Little Night Music”; Kelsey Grammer, honored for “La Cage aux Folles”; and the evening’s host and “Promises, Promises” nominee Sean Hayes. ”Glee” was well represented, with star Lea Michelle, who appeared on Broadway in 2006 in “Spring Awakening,” prepared to sing “Don’t Rain on My Parade”; Matthew Morrison, who will sing “All I Need is a Girl”; Vocal Adrenaline’s Jonathan Groff, another “Spring Awakening” alum, who says he’ll next be appearing in “Mousetrap” in London; and Idina Menzel, Tony winner for “Wicked” who was seen recently on “Glee” arrived sans husband Taye Diggs.” read more

(wwd)Luxury Counterfeiters Found Guilty

“A federal jury in Richmond found two New York importers guilty in a landmark case involving more than $100 million in counterfeit luxury goods. In one of the largest luxury counterfeit goods prosecutions in U.S. history, Chong Lam and Siu Yung Chan, also known as Joyce Chan, were each convicted of one count of conspiracy to traffic in counterfeit goods imported from China, two counts of trafficking in counterfeit handbags, wallets, purses and carry-on bags and two counts of illegally smuggling counterfeit goods in the U.S. A third defendant, Eric Yuen, was found not guilty of the same charges. The three were charged in January 2008. Evidence presented at trial showed that Lam and Chan, along with their co-conspirators, operated an extensive international manufacturing, import and wholesale counterfeit goods business. Lam and Chan were controlling officers of at least 13 different companies in the U.S. and overseas, and were running at least eight separate factories that produced counterfeit bags, according to the Department of Justice.” read more

Proenza Schouler Resort 2010

“After a recent trip to India, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez thought about what their Proenza Schouler girl needs for resort — which went beyond the expected saris and rich embellishments. So they chose to use Bandhani tie-dyeing techniques and sweet tie closures rather than buttons and hardware. The cool tie-dye looks range from easy Ts to lightweight dresses, while textured gold dresses are rich and luxe. And beachy Baja tops and tailored coats make the perfect toppers.”

Urban Zen 2010

“After years of talking up in-season shows, Donna Karan finally practiced what she’s been preaching on Thursday. Her first Urban Zen presentation, held in the rooftop garden of the Greenwich Street building that houses the line’s store, featured 13 models in sexy, draped pieces, grounded in T-shirt dressing from the collection that’s currently in stores. “For me, Urban Zen is about bringing it to the consumer,” said Karan. “I wanted to give an immediate experience.”

Neiman Rating Raised, Barneys Unchanged

“Neiman Marcus Inc. got a thumbs-up from one ratings agency Thursday, while Barneys New York Inc. received a less flattering assessment from another.

“Moody’s Investors Service upgraded Neiman’s corporate family rating to “B3” from “Caa1” based on a “solid recovery in credit metrics,” while Standard & Poor’s Ratings Service took Barneys off CreditWatch without changing its “CCC” rating. However, S&P lowered its issue-level rating on Barneys to “CCC-minus” from “CCC” and lowered its recovery rating to 5 from 3 “based on our view that the company’s valuation has diminished over the past few years.” Barneys was placed on CreditWatch with positive implications on April 22. “The negative rating outlook reflects our concern that Barneys’ capital structure is unsustainable and that some sort of restructuring is a likely outcome,” wrote S&P credit analyst David Kuntz. He cited the store’s “weak liquidity position, participation in the narrow luxury segment, small store base, absence of a chief executive officer since mid-2008, highly leveraged capital structure and thin cash flow protection measures” in his research note explaining the action.” read more

Uma Thurman Named Ambassador to Key to the Cure

“Uma Thurman and Donna Karan are teaming to combat women’s cancer. Saks Fifth Avenue and The Breast Cancer Research Foundation tapped the actress as this year’s ambassador to the retailer’s annual Key to the Cure initiative. Karan designed the limited edition T-shirt that will be sold as part of the campaign and benefits a slew of organizations devoted to the fight against cancer. It’s a cause that Thurman and Karan take very seriously. Both have known women affected by the disease, and Thurman was particularly inspired to step up her efforts in the fight against it when she attended the Susan G. Komen Race for the Cure in Central Park in September and shot the starting gun. “It was amazing to see so many women, both survivors and nonsurvivors alike, united in this effort,” said Thurman. “When [Key to the Cure] was presented to me, I thought, ‘This is something I want to make the time to do, something that matters a lot to me.’” Thurman joins past celebrity ambassadors including Gwyneth Paltrow, Charlize Theron, Hilary Swank, Heidi Klum, Glenn Close, Renée Zellweger and Nicole Kidman. Like them, Thurman is to appear in a national public service announcement sporting the Karan-designed T-shirt, which will be placed in September and October issues of fashion and lifestyle publications.” read more

Resort Collections 2011:

Marc Jacobs Resort 2011

“The buoyant spirit of wealthy beach towns comes through at Marc Jacobs, where resort is flush with girlish quirks. He works a pastel palette in jumbo tweeds, webby knits and dresses with frothy, floral appliqués, all of which are feminine and flirty to the extreme in the case of full skirts — some midlength, some microsocopic — that kick out at the rear. And on the subdued side are A-line skirts, shorts suits and tipped knits for the playful preppy.”

Stella McCartney Resort 2011

“For Stella McCartney, resort is not a question of show versus showroom, but rather how to temporarily transplant her collection to New York and upstage everyone else with a presentation-as-garden-party. This season, the venue was Gavin Brown’s enterprise staged with vignettes: models playing chess, dancing to an a cappella group, posing in a faux photoshoot (with real NYC photographers cycling through), etc. It all served as a charming, if at times chaotic, backdrop for snappy floral dresses, sporty shorts and jackets done with scalloped edges, McCartney’s signature tailored blazers, lace tops and cropped trapeze trenches. “We just try to have a bit of fun,” said McCartney, shrugging off her inspiration as “flowers, an English garden in New York.”

(wwd)Talbots Reduces Loss in 1st Qtr.

“The Talbots Inc. on Tuesday posted a first-quarter loss that was narrower than a year ago and smaller than analysts expected, but shares fell 9.5 percent on the retailer’s anemic second-quarter forecast and questionable inventory position. For the three months ended May 1, the net loss was $4.4 million, or 8 cents a diluted share, compared with a year-ago loss of $23.6 million, or 44 cents. On an adjusted basis, income from continuing operations, excluding one-time charges related to restructuring and its merger with BPW Acquisition Corp., was $21.7 million, or 38 cents a share, 22 cents above the 16 cents expected, on average, by analysts polled by Yahoo Finance. Sales rose 4.7 percent to $320.7 million from $306.2 million as same-store sales increased 2.4 percent, full-price selling was up 21 percent and markdown selling dropped 31 percent. Referring to these numbers, Trudy Sullivan, president and chief executive officer, told analysts on a morning conference call, “After 11 quarters of a year-over-year sales decline, we have turned the corner to positive sales growth.” read more

(US)JWoww Debuts “Filthy Couture”

We’ve been waiting (not quite at the edges of our seats) since we saw J-Woww at NY Fashion week in September, hoping that maybe it was serving as inspiration for something wearable, but now we’re not quite sure…”At Sunday night’s MTV Movie Awards, Jenni “J-Woww” Farley wasn’t shy about showcasing her latest project, clothing line Filthy Couture. The Jersey Shore star stepped onto the red carpet rocking a lacy pink minidress from the new collection, telling PEOPLE of the revealing plunge-front look, “The dress has a thousand Swarovski crystals. Farley describes her personal style as “sexy gothic,” a look that will anchor Filthy Couture, which is set to debut this July on the heels of her line of made-to-order tops. “I’m more like rocker-edgy, but very sexy,” she said. “Definitely all my dresses and bathing suits and my jeans and shirts will be like that.” And is there such thing as too risqué for the 21-year-old “guidette”? Said J-Woww, “I keep it sexy classy. I won’t go to porn star sexy. I won’t go that far.” For more info on Filthy Couture, visit jwoww.com.” read more

(wwd)Google Exec Touts YouTube as Brand Builder

“One of the biggest brand building mediums today is video, said Kevin Kells, national industry director of consumer packaged goods for Google Inc., which owns YouTube. It tells a story and creates an emotional connection between a brand and its customers. “The very nature of the medium forces you to be engaged with it,” he said, referring to clicking, searching, sharing and commenting. “Video is nothing more than sight, sound and motion storytelling. It’s a really powerful storytelling device.”  In the last month, 77 percent of Americans online watched a video. Only five years old, YouTube garnered 2 billion views a day in May. Every 60 days, more minutes of video are uploaded than the top three broadcast channels produced in 60 years, he said. YouTube is the second-largest search engine in the world after Google, and a quarter of YouTube sessions contain at least one search opportunity for brands, Kells said. Companies can advertise on the home page, next to video that’s important to customers, or they can create brand channels and archive company video.” read more

CFDA Designer of the Year

(Daily News)CFDA Award Winners

“It was just one of a night of surprises that proved fashion’s in store for a youthquake. For every Brooke Shields and Gwyneth Paltrow, there was Alexa Chung, who sparkled in a demure Marc Jacobs dress, and sometimes “Gossip Girl” star Michelle Trachtenberg, in Rebecca Taylor. Even Marc Jacobs, no spring chicken, walked to the podium to accept his Womenswear Designer of the Year award to the tune of Justin Bieber’s “Baby.” Jason Wu, 28, had to “pinch himself” when he picked up the Swarovski Womenswear award, which honors emerging talent. Wu’s best known for pulling off fashion’s greatest feat – dressing Michelle Obama for the Inaugural Ball – at just 26. Of course, leave it to the Olsen twins to defy their youth and swathe themselves like monks. As 26-year-old nominee Alexander Wang put it, “I love fashion because you can’t define it.” Consider that this generation’s motto: With an “anything goes” attitude, the new guard is ready to shake up the status quo.” read more

(wwd)Wal-Mart Downplays Apparel

“Wal-Mart Stores Inc. has lots of plans for the future when it comes to international expansion, but it made one thing absolutely clear at its annual meeting here: apparel isn’t a focus. “Apparel is a small part of our business,” vice chairman Eduardo Castro-Wright said in a Q&A session with the media following the annual meeting Friday. “Sixty percent of our business is in grocery. “While apparel makes a lot of the headlines, it isn’t our [most] important business. Apparel is a work in progress,” he said, repeating a phrase he’s used several times in recent months. “I can summarize it by saying that we are going back to basics in many ways. Basics, as in business basics and basics, literally, in terms of the product itself. We do extremely well when we sell everyday needs for our customers, anything from socks and underwear to jeans and T-shirts. That’s where we excel and that’s where our value proposition can differentiate us from other retailers.” Apparel is important only “because it completes the trip,” Castro-Wright continued. “If you’re buying groceries and consumables and can pick up [soft goods], that’s the model we’re using to enrich the [product] mix and the overall basket.”  read more

(wwd)Versace Posts Loss for ’09

“Hit by the slump in luxury goods and the extensive restructuring plan masterminded by chief executive officer Giangiacomo Ferraris, Gianni Versace SpA last year had operating losses of 49.6 million euros, or $59.2 million, on a 19 percent fall in sales to 268 million euros, or $320 million. Losses before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization were 2.4 million euros, or $2.7 million, in part due to a slash in Ittierre royalties. Net profit was unavailable. Currency conversions are at current exchange rates. The results confirm a forecast made by Ferraris last fall, when he also predicted flat sales this year but a return to profitability in 2011.” read more

Resort Collection 2011:

DVF Resort 2011

“Diane von Furstenberg’s girl is “always ready to fly at any time” — just like Diane. So her resort collection, titled La Petite Valise, was full of lightweight, throw-on-and-go goods that drew on DVF classics — here, with a young, sporty spirit. Her signature wrap dress came as a romper; graphic prints were bigger and bolder on men’s wear shirts and boxer shorts, and striped and polka-dot swimwear went well with HotPants.”

Carolina Herrera Resort 2011

“With Impressionist colors and technique in mind, Carolina Herrera delivered a resort lineup that felt perfectly apropos for the season’s early spring due date. Silhouettes such as tiered mermaid gowns and sophisticated sheaths were in tune with Herrera’s feminine, formal oeuvre, but they were rendered with a new lightness in sheer organzas and a playful parasol print done in shades of pale pink, mint green and sky blue.”

Oscar De La Renta Resort 2011

“Always one for whom more is more, Oscar de la Renta included 55 ultrafeminine looks in his resort collection that left all his bases covered. For day, short tweed jackets — many done up in inventive textures — added a trim, tailored layer to skirts, frothy or fluted, while great knitwear and a refreshing chambray, denim and khaki series addressed de la Renta’s more casual constituents. And evening was a grand affair, full of full-skirted ball gowns and elegant columns.”

Z Spoke Resort 2011 Zac Posen’s diffusion line, Z Spoke, offers looks infused with what Posen calls “pajama glamour,” as in a chic silk crepe halter jumpsuit. There are also plenty of flirty dresses in a variety of options, like a swingy knit print frock and a floral bustierlike dress.

Rachel Roy Resort 2011 It’s all about relaxed glamour at Rachel Roy, as she references the graphic black-and-white palette and bold color combinations of Cuban artist Amelia Peláez. According to Roy, “it’s a fantasy of Forties Havana.”

Yigal Azrouël Resort 2011 Yigal Azrouël takes a minimalistic approach to design and draws on the work of Helmut Newton. Keeping the collection clean and modern, Azrouël manipulates fabrics and texture.

(wwd)May Comps Raise Spending Concerns

“The retail crystal ball was murky after May same-store sales results raised renewed concerns about the strength of consumer spending heading into the fall. Value-oriented retailers and high-end stores reporting on Thursday produced the strongest numbers against weak year-ago comparisons, but many teen and midmarket retailers fell short. The disparity suggested an underlying weakness in demand that is complicating the challenge of predicting consumers’ wants and needs, and buying and flowing merchandise in tune with them. Some stores planning for a more vigorous recovery are being confronted with higher inventory levels, putting their margins at risk, while others, still taking a highly cautious approach to stock levels, might have lost sales last month, analysts said.” read more

(reuters)Lowering luxury prices can be costly

“Many European luxury groups have widened their entry-level offering to lure more shoppers but if the strategy brings short-term gains, it risks causing the brand long-term pain, luxury executives and experts said this week. Italian fashion brand Valentino, who previously never sold an evening gown for less than 2,000 euros, now offers cocktail dresses for half that price and even T-shirts, jeans and other casual wares to boost its sales. But some luxury experts say Valentino’s “Couture T-shirt,” even with a price tag of “only” 300 euros ($365.6) is an oxymoron. ”The problem with luxury brands is that they are associated with exclusivity,” Isabelle Ardon, luxury fund manager at SG Gestion told the Reuters Global Luxury Summit this week. Valentino “is seen as very couture,” Ardon said, and faces a common dilemma: how can a fashion brand offer more accessibly priced products to boost volumes without losing its luxury appeal? Dior introduced a T-shirt called “J’adore Dior” about 10 years ago and rapidly took it off the market after deciding to pursue a more upmarket strategy.” read more

(cnn)Tennis fashion brands serve up a healthy return for players

2011 Resort Collections Galore:

(wwd)Vena Cava Resort 2011- see more images

As always Vena Cava Resort, is fun, flirty and every look is wearable.

(wwd)Burberry Prorsum Resort 2011- see more images

Burberry’s color palette for Resort 2011 is incredible. The olive greens, nudes, and creamy gray colors are mixed with bold animal prints and snake skins which look amazing in figure hugging knits and dresses.

(wwd)Chris Benz Resort 2011- see more images

Unless you are a size zero, tall AND skinny then maybe you should skip over Chris Benz’s Resort 2011. We usually die for anything Chris Benz, but this season oversized pants and calf-length dresses can’t be all that flattering…

(SF Chronicle)Liz Claiborne order to pay in ‘Lucky’ brand suit

“A federal judge said Liz Claiborne Inc.’s popular denim line Lucky Brand Dungarees infringes on a Miami company’s trademark and ordered the clothier to pay $300,000 in damages. The ruling, signed Friday and filed Tuesday, could create a hurdle for the clothing line that’s in the midst of a turnaround. In the decision, Judge Laura Taylor Swain ruled Lucky Brand’s name along, with its use of the phrase “get lucky” and other references to “lucky” violate a trademark for Marcel Fashion Group’s “Get Lucky” clothing line. Swain’s ruling does not prevent Liz Claiborne from continuing to use the Lucky moniker. But Ann Schofield Baker, an attorney who represented Marcel in the case, said if Liz Claiborne continues to use of the name and slogan it would be a continued violation of Marcel’s trademark. Nicholas Rubino, Liz Claiborne’s chief legal officer, said the company would continue using its Lucky Brand name, but would discontinue use of the “Get Lucky” slogan. Schofield Baker said Marcel has not yet decided whether to pursue new litigation if Liz Claiborne continues to promote the brand.” read more

(wwd)Uniqlo Reports Rise in Same-Store Sales

“Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. said Wednesday that Uniqlo’s same-store sales climbed 3.1 percent in May.
Uniqlo has bounced back from two consecutive months of declining comps, which the company had blamed on cool temperatures. Same-store sales dropped 12.4 percent in April and 16.4 percent in March.
“May same-store sales increased year-on-year, thanks to aggressive sales promotions including the campaign to celebrate the 26th anniversary of Uniqlo,” the company said. Uniqlo’s monthly sales figures refer to the brand’s business in Japan and exclude the Japanese fast-fashion player’s stores overseas.” read more

(AP)Major retailers agree to limit lead in handbags

“More than 40 major retailers and apparel makers have agreed to limit the use of lead in handbags and other fashion accessories, an environmental group said Wednesday. The companies will set new industry standards for lead use in their products as part of a $1.7 million legal settlement filed Tuesday in Alameda County Superior Court. The agreement settles a lawsuit filed against the companies last year by the Oakland-based Center for Environmental Health. The environmental advocacy group found high levels of lead when it tested dozens of vinyl and faux leather women’s handbags, purses and wallets it bought at major retail outlets in the San Francisco Bay area. Michael Green, the center’s executive director, said he hopes other companies that make, import or sell fashion accessories will follow the health standards spelled out in the legal agreement. The settlement means “millions of women no longer need to fear that their purse may pose a threat to their health or the health of their children,” Green said. The retailers that signed the settlement include Macy’s, Target, Kohl’s, JC Penney, Guess, Sears, Kmart, Saks and Victoria’s Secret.” read more

Monique Pean for Gap

(nbc)CFDA Gap Winners Unveiled Today

“Today CFDA award winners Sophie Theallet, Patrik Ervell, and Monique Péan will unveil their respective women’s, men’s, and jewelry collections for Gap. Each of the standout designers have created pieces that reflect their unique aesthetic, offering Gap’s mass consumer base a taste of what a high fashion luminary-in-the-making is all about. Sophie Theallet - a Thread darling and First Lady favorite – will present sweet and feminine dresses, skirts, and tops with her signature disarming French sartorial charm.  Her Gap collection grants access through its slightly lower prices ($148-$248). We’ll see you in line for those items, for sure. Then, there’s Patrik Ervell, who grew up in Gap’s hometown of San Francisco. Drawing on the store’s strength in basic classics, Ervell did men’s pieces ($188-$248),  like jeans and shirts, with his intelligent cut and throwback accents. Jewelry designer Péan replicated her coveted one-of-a-kind, eco-conscious baubles in bulk for the project. There are 12 styles ($198-$248) made from natural materials, including horn, buri twine, and organic cotton. The highly anticipated lines go live today at Gap’s Fifth Avenue at 53rd Street flagship, so stay tuned for a first look.” read more

(wwd)TJX to Launch New Off-Price Concept

“After racking up the biggest year-over-year profit increase in the firm’s 33-year history, The TJX Cos. Inc. hopes to extend the winning streak with a new off-price retail concept set to debut in spring 2011. At its annual meeting at its headquarters here Wednesday, TJX, the largest off-price retailer in the U.S. with $20.29 billion in 2009 sales, declined to divulge details about the project until the third quarter but indicated the new business will stay within its core categories — principally apparel, accessories and home merchandise — and has the potential for 100 stores. Even with recent expansion, TJX has a number of voids in the merchandise matrix it could seek to fill. With TJ Maxx and Marshalls of Marmaxx falling at or below bridge-contemporary price points and AJ Wright focused on moderate, TJX could explore designer and better apparel or launch a stand-alone venture dedicated to a single category, as the firm did in 1992 with HomeGoods and more recently with Shoe Megashop by Marshalls. Jewelry and accessories, which account for 13 percent of sales, provide potential, as does children’s wear, which performed well in 2009. Apparel and footwear accounted for 61 percent of revenues last year. Despite a stellar year, TJX’s ambitions are to push further, faster. The retailer sees itself as a global player with the potential to grow net sales to twice the current levels. ” read more

(wwd)Wal-Mart’s Uphill Battle With Apparel

“Apparel is Wal-Mart Stores Inc.’s perennial Achilles’ heel — and the question remains whether it will ever be able to repair it. Even as the world’s largest retailer powered through the Great Recession while its competitors stumbled, apparel lagged while food and areas such as consumer electronics soared. And the problem has only become more intense now that the economy has begun to recover and Wal-Mart’s competitors are closing the gap. Wal-Mart is well aware of the weakness. Vice chairman Eduardo Castro-Wright last month said the retailer’s apparel business was “below expectations and continues to be a work in progress” as the company reported a 10 percent increase in profits to $3.32 billion in the first quarter ended April 30 on a 5.9 percent rise in sales to $99.85 billion, although same-store sales in the U.S. dropped 1.5 percent. Contrast Target Corp.’s first-quarter results, which reflected a 2.8 percent jump in same-store sales. Target reported a 29 percent increase in first-quarter net income, driven by higher sales of more profitable categories such as clothing. “Wal-Mart has been a laggard for some time in the apparel arena,” said Todd Slater, an analyst at Lazard Capital Markets. “They’ve tried numerous strategies. In an effort to capture more share in this high-margin category, Wal-Mart is partnering with suppliers and labels like L.E.I., Starter, Op, and Danskin that provide exclusive, nationally recognized brands with the favorable economics of private label. Wal-Mart is most focused on women’s, teens, kids and baby.” read more

Despite temperatures soaring well above 85 degrees across the country, however there’s a chill and it’s coming from the American consumer.

In light of same store sales numbers that will be reported later this morning, analysts are estimating ( by way of Reuters) May comps will be up 2.6 percent a  mere whimper compared to March and April numbers. What gives? A lot of factors. For example, March and April’s push to purchase reflected a phenom. I like to call “frugal fatigue” also known (to the economist set) as pent up demand. In addition, Easter came a week earlier compared to the previous year. Also, fears of Euro debt contagion,  BP oil spill environmental disaster, stock market volatility and unemployment numbers are causing the American consumer to spend less and save more.  The result- deparment store comps are expected to be up 0.9 percent and 1.1 percent while teen retailers are expected to take a nose dive by 2.6 percent. In light of uncertaintly, there are retailers I think will weather the storm:

1) Norstrom ( JWN)

Reasons why: Multi- channel increases of 13.9%, Nordstrom Rack highly successful for them opened 6 new stores in the last quarter and  inventory mix is STELLAR (read: perfectly merchandised jeggings, denim and DvF dresses).

2) JCrew (JCG):

Reasons why: Posted strong first quarter results, with net income doubling to more than $44.7 million and comp store sales rising 15 percent. Raised guidance for fiscal year 2010 earnings from $2.35 to $2.45 a diluted share.  Hi-fi partnerships with designers such as Belstaff, Essie nail polish, Hunter wellies, Fallon jewelry and Net-a-porter will give J.Crew fashion street cred and presence in over 170 different countries without overhead cost.

3) TJMaxx (TJX):

Reasons why:  Analysts expect comp store sales to come in at 2.7% and by the looks of store traffic from my numerous visits, assortments and inventory control they are in a good position.  Also, Carol Meyrowitz announced at the annual meeting on Wednesday TJX is rolling out another off-price retail concept set to launch in 3Q 2011. One thing to be wary of is their plan to invest almost all of thier $750 million of capital budget in Marmaxx and TJX Europe. Biut with a rise in first quarter profits of 58.4% to $331 million, euro currency fears may not have much of an effect on this retail behemoth.

4) Blue Nile (NILE):

Reasons why: According to the CEO in an interview on CNBC, net sales increased 18.7% to $74.1 million operating income grew 23.3 % to $3.6 million in the 4th quater.  In addition, international sales grew 71.4% and there is iscounting on top of sinking diamond prices compared to gold:  $NILE’s prices are 20% – 60% lower than retail because they don’t have infrastructure of the store.

(wwd)YSL Cruise 2011

“Everybody has a reference in mind because Yves Saint Laurent is so iconic. So how are you going to do it”

While in New York showing for the showing of his Yves Saint Laurent resort collection on Thursday at the French Consulate, Stefano Pilati said about the collection“For me, it’s about understanding now that [the iconic looks] are basically cult. So the answer is to take certain elements from the archives and change them.”As for his show, Pilati said the venue makes perfect sense. “Resort started for the American market,” he said. “And so, this is a sort of a mini-show in New York in a space that could breathe a bit of French history by itself. You know, a collaboration.” read/see more

(wwd)“Made in Midtown”

“In a surprising finding, an independent study of the Garment District found the neighborhood is far from dying and has a future as a productive incubator of ideas — with the right support. That was the takeaway from the much-anticipated “Made in Midtown” survey that will be released today by the nonprofit Design Trust for Public Space after six months of in-depth research and man-on-the-street conversations with a battery of sources. But what was even more surprising to the group’s executive director, Deborah Marton — and perhaps more inspirational to the scores of designers who have yet to make names for themselves — is the vibrancy that exists for start-up businesses and emerging designers.

The fact the area is an incubator of ideas — or more of “a research and development hub” as opposed to an industrial production community — was a bit of a surprise, she said. The degree to which companies of various sizes use the district in that way, especially in terms of plucking fresh talent, was another eye-opener. “Made in Midtown” determined that 846 fashion companies are headquartered in the Garment District, which is more than those based in Paris, Milan and London combined.” read more

Déjeuner Silk Short, $88 (nymag)

(wwd)Shorts Return to Fashion

“Retailers report they’re experiencing double-digit increases in the shorts category, and it’s not just because the weather has heated up. Shorts have become fashion items, ranging from denim cutoffs to rolled and cuffed twill shorts to belted cargoes and longer, slinky silk shorts for evening.

Bloomingdale’s, for example, is touting shorts as “the summer essential from minis to knee-length” in signage at the entrance of its contemporary department. Across the country, stores ranging from Lord & Taylor, Belk and Saks Fifth Avenue to Scoop, Olive & Bette’s and Chalk Boutique are seeing customers gravitate toward shorts in greater numbers than previous years.  “It’s one of our big pushes. We got them in early and they started off very well,” said Frank Doroff, vice chairman and general merchandise manager for ready-to-wear at Bloomingdale’s. Some of the brands doing well are Sanctuary, Buffalo and Calvin Klein Jeans, especially in twills and rayons. “The rolled cuffed shorts are working really well. They’re the hottest trend,” said Rodbell. In denim, shorts from AG and Rich & Skinny have also been strong sellers, she said. “It’s easy to wear the rolled look, and the whole military thing is anchoring it,” she said. She said L&T is also doing well with the cocktail short, “which is softer and more fluid. It’s not big volume yet, and it’s more dressed up. It’s flirtier,” she said. Some of those vendors include 860, Love 80 and BCBG. read more

On that note, The Cut recommends J. Crew’s Déjeuner pair (pictured above). The silk fabric makes these evening-appropriate, while the drawstring gives them a sporty spin that’s suitable for day.-nymag

(TED)Johanna Blakley: Lessons from fashion’s free culture

We are always on the lookout for great TED talks, and here is one that is relevant to the business of fashion. Johanna Blakley talks about copyright laws, how much knock off designers can get away with and whether or not we need copyright laws in fashion to protect designers and their designs.

We’re back after a long holiday weekend, Hope you all had a great Memorial Day!

(wwd)Missoni Cruise 2011

“Angela Missoni described her collection as “strong, with lots of character and color.” Indeed, the house’s patterns were super graphic and bold, inspired by Africa in the way of motifs and color combinations, while the shapes — long halter dresses, plain shifts and elongated cardigans over T-shirts and pants — took their cue from the swinging Sixties. Topping off the mood were stacks of colorful printed bangles, summery hats and bandanas.” read more

(wsj)The Mystique of the Handmade

“Louis Vuitton has been caught pulling the wool—a very fine and delicately woven wool, no doubt—over the eyes of consumers. Britain’s Advertising Standards Authority this week demanded that the luxury company cease and desist with ads that imply their products are made by hand.

Why the preference for the handmade, anyway? Yes, there are still goods where skilled craftsmanship makes all the difference: No machine can match the judgment of an experienced luthier, who has to adapt to the acoustic quirks of each piece of wood he carves for a violin. But does it matter whether a product is crafted by hand or stamped out by machine, if the consumer can’t tell the difference?” read more

(wwd)Moncler Appoints Lavia as CEO

“Moncler Group has tapped Alberto Lavia as its chief executive officer, joining the firm July 15. The appointment comes as the group prepares for product expansion and gears up for a public listing sometime this year. Lavia, who exited his post as ceo at Façonnable Group in May, will also be in charge of the group’s other brands, which include Marina Yachting, 18CRR81 and Coast + Weber + Ahaus. President and creative director Remo Ruffini said that Lavia’s appointment “represents a further strengthening of the managerial structure.” read more

(wwd)Retail Stocks Decline in May

“Retail stocks managed a 1.6 percent gain last week despite a decline on Friday, but the advance wasn’t strong enough to prevent their first losing month since January. The S&P Retail Index ended Friday’s trading session at 443.45, down 1.2 percent for the day. The pullback erased some, but hardly all, of the appreciation from Thursday’s 3.2 percent rally. The sector ended May with a 6.7 percent decline, the first down month since January, when it was off 3.3 percent. The index began trading this week 11.3 percent off the 499.91 high for the year reached on April 26. Retail issues have been sensitive to the increasingly cautionary language used by stores in providing guidance about the second quarter and the rest of this year, even as retailers generally met or exceeded analysts’ expectations in reporting first-quarter results.” read more

(wwd)Organic Cotton Sales Grow

“Global retail sales of organic cotton apparel and home textiles increased 35 percent in 2009 to an estimated $4.3 billion from $3.2 billion a year earlier, according to the Organic Exchange.Growth in the organic cotton market was fueled by a combination of consumer interest in “green” products and retailer and brand expansion of organic cotton programs, according to the Organic Exchange. For cotton to qualify as organic by the Organic Exchange, it must be grown through a system of farming that maintains soil fertility without using pesticides and fertilizers or genetically modified seeds. “Many people thought the recession would mean an end to all things organic, but the market reacted in quite the opposite way,” said LaRhea Pepper, senior director with the Organic Exchange and author of the report. “Consumers dug in their heels and continued to support the use of organic cotton and other sustainable fibers, while brands and retailers maintained or even expanded their commitments to making their product lines more sustainable by continuing to increase their use of such fibers and safer manufacturing processes.” read more