retail

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Posted on Wednesday, July 7th, 2010 by
Wednesday, July 7th, 2010

This Weekend’s High Temps, J Woww’s Fashion Sense, Hot Weather Clothing, Recycle NYC, and Givenchy Couture.

(wwd)Heat wave: what NYC wore when it hit 105°.

WWD has a recap of what NYC wore when NYC experienced the hottest weather in a long time. long maxi dresses,floral sun dresses, straw hats and SHORT shorts were among some of the fashion choices this weekend. Here’s a slideshow of more pictures if you need ideas for the rest of the week, it’s going to be a scorcher!

(wwd)Hot Times at Retail: Soaring Temps Drive Consumers to Stores

“Consumers throughout the Eastern U.S. sought relief from record-breaking temperatures Tuesday any way they could — including going shopping. As the thermometer topped 100 degrees in Manhattan and elsewhere, retail executives said traffic to their air-conditioned stores and malls was heavier than normal. Even the bedbug-plagued Hollister store in SoHo, which reopened Saturday, saw a large influx of consumers. The searing heat followed the warmest July 4th weekend since 2007 and the third-warmest June in 50 years. And the heat wave was forecast to continue through at least Friday, when temperatures are expected to dip to the more-normal mid-80s. Over the weekend, businesses in the eastern two-thirds of the U.S. experienced double-digit increases of seasonal purchases compared to the coldest 2009 period in a decade, according to Planalytics, which analyzes and publishes the weather’s impact on retail. While consumers on the West Coast were still waiting for summer to start and holding off on seasonal purchases, other shoppers were able to think about fall wardrobes and even boots — despite the heat. Retailers said that the gain in traffic and sales will likely last as long as the heat wave — a much-needed boost as consumers’ reluctance to spend increases along with unemployment and fears of a second recession. Cold water is likely to be splashed on retailers’ recent good mood on Thursday when stores report comparable-store sales that, while expected to show growth, also will stir concerns over margins and rising inventories going into the key back-to-school season. “We had high double-digit increases,” said Susan Davidson, president and chief executive officer of Scoop. “East Hampton was off the charts. They’re buying fall early, driven by designers like Azzedine Alaïa, Missoni, Michael Kors, Phillip Lim and Marc Jacobs. We’re selling Chloé shoes and boots. Also, swimwear, shorts and little dresses.” She said business was “off to a good start” on Tuesday.” read more

(nbc)Pret-A-Re-Porter: NYC Launching Massive Fashion Recycling Program

Starting in September, New York City will launch one of the largest textile recycling initiatives in the nation. The aim is to make it easy to donate clothing, almost as easy as throwing it away. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, Americans pitch almost 10 pounds of socks, jeans, shirts and sheets per year, per person. In New York, where 190,000 tons of textiles entered the city’s landfills in 2008 alone, the plan would place 50 collection bins in high-traffic areas. ”I moved three times in the last five years, and each time I ended up throwing away clothes,” says 25-year-old Tracy Feldman. “It is just too hard to haul it all over the city. If there was a bin on my block, I wouldn’t hesitate to recycle them.” The city is taking bids for a 10- to 15-year contract with a nonprofit company that will be responsible for the bins. Goodwill Industries International is one of the companies bidding on the contract. ”There has not been another program like this that we know of,” said Goodwill spokesman Alfred Vanderbilt. “We think they are being very creative and we hope this sets a new standard.” A Goodwill Industries survey of 600 adults in the United States and Canada found that more than half of people who donate clothing say they wouldn’t go more than 10 minutes out of their way to make a donation. Robert Lange, the director of the Bureau of Waste Prevention, Reuse and Recycling in New York, said his department discovered the same problem. ”You can open a black bag at the landfill and see what looks like new clothing,” he said. “It is easier to throw it out than recycle.” Not all used clothing can be recycled into usable clothing — take those old, stinky sneakers and torn clothing. But that doesn’t mean those items can’t be donated. While Goodwill is mostly looking for clothing that can be resold, there are ways to recycle even the old tattered pieces. At Wearable Collections, a New Jersey-based textile recycling company, almost half of donations are good for resale, according to the owner. The other half is split nearly evenly between being used for rags for businesses like the automotive industry and being broken down for insulation. Less than 5 percent of the total is unusable and goes to the landfill. Officials say that if New York’s campaign is successful, it could lead to a nationwide movement to recycle clothing.” read more


(dailymail)J not so Woww! (we’ll spare you the pictures)

Not that we would want to give her any more publicity for horrible clothing, but we are giggling a bit about the launch of her new line. When we ran into her at Fashion Week back in Feb. 2010 and couldn’t stop gawking at her skin-tight clothes, we were slightly curious (just slightly) to see if she would actually follow through with her own line. Not quite sure if you would call this an accomplishment however.

“With her skimpy bikinis, tight miniskirts and plunging dresses, she’s not exactly known for her sophisticated sense of style. And JWoww’s new  ‘Filthy Couture’ fashion line may have a looked a little trashy to some at its Las Vegas runway show. Models sashayed down the runway in tight padded lace mini dresses, ripped white jeans and clashing corset-style tops with plunging necklines. The Jersey Shore star’s range of swimwear looked a little like lingerie, with chains added to one bikini and another decorated with black lace. ’For the bathing suits I wanted to go with a grungy, or sexy-grungy look with the chains, but I also wanted to keep it girly with the lace,’ JWoww explained to People.com, adding that she found her runway debut ‘very unreal.’ The 23-year-old star sported a low cut pink lacy dress – her own design – at the event, held at Vegas hot spot Ghost Bar. ‘I’ve had this vision for a long time, and I’ve been in school for seven years doing it but I never thought it would come true.’” read more

A Couture Treat: New from Givenchy

Givenchy Fall 2010 Couture

“Death, religion, sensuality. Provocative topics for cocktail conversation, and for fashion, as well. As starting points for Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, the themes made for an arresting, finely honed collection. Tisci’s three-part motif stemmed from what the designer called the three obsessions of Frida Kahlo (whose 103rd birthday is today, for those into such coincidences.) The artist’s fascination with the Mexican Day of the Dead inspired the skeletal lace tracings that recurred throughout the tight, 10-look lineup, delivering ample bravura.”

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Posted on Friday, June 25th, 2010 by
Friday, June 25th, 2010

What in the world do the new Eat, Pray, Love scents actually smell like?

“Fresh has teamed up with Sony Pictures to create the Eat, Pray, Love fragrance collection, based on the best-selling memoir of the same name by Elizabeth Gilbert. The trio is set to launch on July 15, before the movie of the same name — starring Julia Roberts — is released on Aug. 13. “We have been working for the past 18 months on several new directions for the brand,” said Jean-Marc Plisson, chief executive officer of Fresh Inc. at LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics North America. “We used to be a very fragmented brand with lots of great, but unrelated, products in the eyes of the consumer. One of our key strategies has been to create lifestyle items that you get excited about in-store. In beauty, we have to find ways that give interest to the customer to see you and feel good about it. With the Eat, Pray, Love collection, we’re partnering with Sony and with movie theaters and retailers to provide not just a product, but an experience.”

Eat has top notes of Italian lemon, basil and bergamot; a heart of plum, red current and rose, and a drydown of caramel, meringue and vanilla. Pray has top notes of elemi, pink pepper and juniper berry; middle notes of incense, peony and rose, and a drydown of patchouli, amber and musk. Love has top notes of bergamot, red currant and mango blossom; a heart of tiare and dewy jasmine, and a drydown of sandalwood, vetiver and velvet amber.  Each will retail for $32 for a 1-oz. eau de parfum spray.” read more

(wsj)Designers Pitch Brand New York

“Young labels like the Row, Jason Wu, Nellie Partow, Waris Ahluwalia and Prabal Gurung are trumpeting their New York roots on apparel and labels in an effort to create a sartorial version of the locavore movement. The idea: to link locally-made clothes with artisanal values to promote stitched-in-New York sales. As New York’s Garment District struggles to survive, a consortium of designers and manufacturers have launched a campaign, Made in Midtown, in hopes that clothing shoppers will become more conscious of the impact of their purchases.

A recent study by Made in Midtown found that New York’s fashion industry accounts for 5% (over 172,000) of jobs in the city. By comparison, there were more than 300,000 apparel jobs in New York in 1949. ”Part of what can come out of this study is, how do you talk about locally-made products in a way that connects the consumer to making the decision [to buy them]?” says Council of Fashion Designers of America executive director Steven Kolb, adding that he hopes lessons can be borrowed from the green and local movements to promote domestic purchases of apparel.” read the full article

(wwd)David Yurman CEO to Exit

“Paul Blum, David Yurman’s chief executive officer, is stepping down. Blum, who joined the jewelry and timepiece firm in February 2006, will remain in his role until a successor is named and become a member of its board. “Paul joined us four-and-a-half years ago and has succeeded in building an efficient organization that has helped us grow our business even through some fairly difficult times,” David Yurman, who serves as the company’s chairman, said. “While we are sorry to see Paul go, we are pleased to know he will continue to retain a voice within our company as a board member and we fully support him in his decision and in his future endeavors.” Prior to taking over the ceo role from the namesake designer, Blum had been president of Kenneth Cole. At Yurman, he is credited with transitioning the company from a largely wholesale-based operation to a multichannel business that has wholesale, freestanding retail and e-commerce. Blum also implemented a strong management structure at Yurman.” read more

(wwd)Gucci Launches Children’s Line

“The official launch of Gucci’s children’s wear line Thursday at the Pitti Bimbo trade fair in Florence coincided with a $1 million pledge from the luxury goods house to UNICEF’s Schools for Africa program.
The new initiative, aimed at increasing access to quality basic education, further strengthens the long-standing partnership between Gucci and the humanitarian association. Their six-year collaboration has helped raise more than $8 million, primarily through the house’s holiday initiative when creative director Frida Giannini develops a special gift collection whose proceeds are partly devolved to the organization.
“I am especially proud of this collection for the new creative challenge and would like to use the opportunity of this launch to reinforce Gucci’s commitment to UNICEF,” said Giannini. “I visited Malawi last November and saw the difficult situation children face in sub-Saharan Africa, where every third child doesn’t get the chance to go to school. UNICEF’s Schools for Africa program is successfully giving more children access to a good education, providing a start in life that so many of us take for granted.” read more

(mtv)From the ‘Eclipse’ Premiere

If you haven’t had enough glitter covered Vampires  in your life lately, we’ve come across a few articles that highlight some of the fashion on the red carpet from the recent Premiere of ‘Eclipse’. In our opinion Dakota Fanning stole the show.

‘Eclipse’ Premiere Fashion Recap: mtv.com

‘The Twilight Saga: Eclipse’ premiere pictures from the red — er, black — carpet: LA Times

(styleite)American Apparel Is On The Brink Of Financial “Collapse”

“In a perfect world, Dov Charney would appear in our newsfeed as little as possible. Instead, we would be greeted by headlines shouting “Alexander Wang Designs for H&M” or “Alber Elbaz Saves A Tree Full of Stray Kittens” — but we can only dream.In a perfect world, Dov Charney would appear in our newsfeed as little as possible. Instead, we would be greeted by headlines shouting “Alexander Wang Designs for H&M” or “Alber Elbaz Saves A Tree Full of Stray Kittens” — but we can only dream. Once again, American Apparel made headlines today when MSNBCpublished an article that strayed away from the company’s problems we all know too well and divert our attention to another: American Apparel is not making bank. Oh really? Guess it has been tough for our minds to wrap around that when we’ve been bombarded by the company’s other problems — like a leak of memos going into details of image policies and $1 million breach contracts. But according to the article, it turns out the recent controversies are not the crux of the financial problems that the company is currently facing. Instead, it’s the CEO’s inability to turn in his financial filings on time and production problems within the company’s Los Angeles factory. Mysteriously, Charney seems to believe that the problem is temporary and everything will be okay:

“Our company in the past has been through these types of issues before and it’s never really presented us with any particular difficulties in running our business.”

Not according to MSNBC’s recent findings, and in this paragraph they sum up what’s really going on:

Even if the clothing company is able to resolve that crisis, production problems at its factories, which are contributing to its poor financial results, could take months to work out, the company has conceded. The Los Angeles-based company also has warned that it risks having its stock delisted from the Amex because it has repeatedly been tardy with its financial filings.

Mr. Charney, please divert your attention away from your doe-eyed models and instead deal with this internal mess once and for all.” read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Posted on Thursday, June 24th, 2010 by
Thursday, June 24th, 2010

(wsj)Forever 21 Pursues Big-Store Branding


“Forever 21 Inc. is set to open a massive new store in New York’s Times Square on Friday, the latest and most aggressive step in the low-priced fashion retailer’s plan to expand from a clothing boutique into a department store. The privately held, Los Angeles-based company is expanding aggressively at a time when most retailers are holding back or downsizing, a move enabled in large part by the recession. Forever 21 snapped up real estate vacated by brands such as the now-bankrupt Mervyns LLC chain that were forced to downsize or close because of dwindling sales. Teens continue to swarm Forever 21′s piles of inexpensive, high-fashion-imitating party dresses and tank tops. But moving into cavernous spaces, like the 90,000-square-foot spot near 46th and Broadway, is forcing the chain into new categories like menswear, children’s clothing and beauty, where its hold on consumers is less certain.” read more

(wwd)H&M Profits Up 24 Percent in Second Quarter

“Hennes & Mauritz AB, the world’s third-largest fashion retailer, said net profits rose 24 percent in the second quarter, but sales of its spring garments were disappointing due to unusually cold weather in most of its markets. Net profits in the three months ended May 31 amounted to 5.21 billion kronor, or $710 million, on sales of 31.6 billion kronor, or $4.3 billion. Same-store sales were down by 1 percent in the quarter. Dollar figures are converted at average exchange rates for the period. Like-for-like sales fell 4 percent in May compared with the same month last year, with the retailer reporting that unspecified calendar effects had a negative impact of 3 to 4 percentage units in the month. Including new stores, sales grew 6 percent in May and 22 percent during the period of June 1-22, it added. The Swedish high-street giant said weaker-than-expected spring sales had left it with 2 percent more stock than last year. “This could lead to a higher price reduction level in the third quarter compared to the corresponding quarter last year,” it said. Gross margin — a key measure of profitability — rose to 65.9 percent in the second quarter from 61 percent a year earlier, boosted by a weaker dollar during the purchasing period for garments sold in the quarter. “Other factors, such as greater surplus capacity at suppliers, lower transportation costs, favorable raw material prices and efficiencies in the buying process also impacted the gross margin positively in the second quarter 2010,” it said. H&M announced it would enter Croatia and Romania in 2011 with store openings in Zagreb and Bucharest in the spring. Also next year, Morocco will become a new franchise market with a store opening in Casablanca in the fall. The company said it had postponed the planned opening of a COS store in Hong Kong from fall 2010 to sometime next year.”

(wwd)U.S. Retailers Push in China

“China is beckoning mainstream U.S. retailers as never before. With the country’s middle class growing fast — projected by Euromonitor to total 700 million people in 2020 — companies such as Gap Inc., American Eagle Outfitters Inc. and Bebe Stores Inc. are making their first forays into China. Others, including Guess Inc., Iconix Brand Group Inc. and Levi Strauss & Co., are enlarging their footprints. The activity comes as China has decided to let its currency appreciate gradually against a basket of currencies, including the dollar, which could — along with rising wages for Chinese workers — boost the purchasing power of its consumers and make the world’s most populous nation an even more enticing market.  The push by retail and apparel firms in China, preceded by the expansion of luxury brands, has accelerated as they seek to diversify geographically because the international economic crisis exposed the vulnerability of developed markets while China’s economy grew 8.7 percent last year.”

(Independent)Madonna’s Fashion Line to Hit Macy’s in August

“Macy’s has released the first images of popstar Madonna and her daughter Lourdes’s first fashion range for the US department store, called Material Girl – due out for back-to-school season in August. Judging from the sketches, there will mainly be 1980s-inspired clothes (complete with a range of fingerless gloves), including flowery bustier dresses, star prints, and ‘jeggings.’ According to the press release, the new line relies on mixing unexpected items, “like a tutu dress and studded-combat boots, or an oversized boyfriend sweatshirt with a floral print mini skirt.” Even though the fashion world is starting to get fed up with celebrity fashion lines, this collection is highly anticipated not just because of Madonna’s star power, but also because of her successful design debut for Swedsih retailer H&M a few years back. All items, expected to cost under $40, will hit Macy’s stores and its website on August 3.” read more

Fashion’s Night Out–Officially–Coming to L.A.!

“Cynthia Ruiz, the president of the city’s Department of Public Works—and also known as the mayor’s fashion ambassador—confirmed that the mayor’s Office of Economics & Business Policy, under the jurisdiction of Deputy Mayor Austin Buetner, has started to plan Los Angeles’ participation in the night-long shopping extravaganza. The U.S. edition of Fashion’s Night Out was created last year through a partnership between Vogue, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and N.Y.C. & Co. (New York City’s tourism site) as a global initiative to celebrate fashion and boost consumer confidence, shopping and the local economy. The F.N.O./L.A. committee will soon reveal how the city of Los Angeles is planning on translating this much-awaited night into sales, events and an opportunity for local designers to be showcased. “I love the idea of L.A.’s FNO having some of the elements that the Downtown L.A. Art Walk has been able to implement—a little something for everybody,” Commissioner Ruiz said. Last year during the inaugural launch of F.N.O. in New York, Los Angeles held a few in-store shopping events around town. Now, after the efforts of many, L.A. will officially join the lineup of Fashion’s Night Out cities, alongside New York and several other fashion capitals around the world.”

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Posted on Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010 by
Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010

Kate Spade Resort 2011

“Deborah Lloyd’s resort and holiday collections have Kate Spade’s retro-modern whimsical spirit. Resort looks include navy-and-white-striped jersey jackets and T-shirt dresses along with ruffled blouses and dresses in a shirting fabric with a pop of color in accessories, such as a color-blocked bag or shoes. New this season are denim handbags and Lloyd’s first pair of jeans. Holiday features sparkly, shiny dresses and skirts, made more casual by adding colorful hosiery or chunky scarves.”

Vionnet Cruise 2011

“Creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga continues to display his knack for distinctive shapes and cuts this season. Dresses steal the spotlight at Vionnet — from loose jersey numbers to skimpier versions in two-toned sequins and ruched styles featuring rounded hems.”

(wwd)Macys.com Names Kantor

“Macy’s Inc.’s Web sites — macys.com and bloomingdales.com — exceeded $1 billion in sales last year, but the corporation wants much more. WWD has learned that Macy’s is developing a strategy to speed growth of its e-commerce businesses and has reassigned a top merchant, Jeff Kantor, to become president of merchandising at macys.com, effective Aug. 1.  Kantor will succeed Helaine Suval, executive vice president of merchandising for macys.com, who is retiring in the spring. In the meantime, she will oversee the development of “an accelerated growth strategy for the e-commerce business,” working closely with Sachse and Kent Anderson, president of macys.com operations, Macy’s said. On the agenda, taking macys.com international. The company will begin to fulfill overseas orders later this year.” read more

(Washington Post)Wendy Brandes on why fashion ‘torments’ women leaders

“Before switching career paths into jewelry design, Wendy Brandes spent 15 years in media and marketing, working at People.com, the Wall Street Journal and investment banking firm Lehman Brothers. In 2004, after designing her own engagement and wedding rings, Brandes became a full-time entrepreneur, drawing on her affinity for strong, powerful women leaders to fuel her own collection. Her website-store offers a mix of whimsical pendants, bold statement rings and eye-catching earrings, some inspired by iconic figures such as Cleopatra and Anne Boleyn, and others taking their story from more obscure sources, such as Marie-Thérèse Charlotte, the eldest daughter of Marie Antoinette. Her latest achievement? Getting a pair of her earrings into the recently released “Sex and the City” sequel. For Brandes, the allure of these luxury items – some cost as much as $15,000 – lies in the backstory of the women who have inspired them. Like so many successful entrepreneurs, Brandes has an eye for detail: Many of her items have a mechanical element, allowing them to open and close, unscrew or twist to reveal some hidden detail, such as a tiny silver chicken tucked inside a gold egg. As she steers her small company and attempts to grow its presence through social media, she draws on her own experiences with good and bad leadership and takes notes from the success and failures of famous women around the world.” read the interview with Wendy Brandes and Holly Thomas of the Washington Post.

(wwd)Kabat to Exit Prada

“Randy Kabat, executive vice president, marketing and advertising at Prada USA, is leaving the company, effective July 9. Kabat joined Prada in 1997, immediately taking a leadership role in a business-side trajectory that kept pace with, and reflected, Miuccia Prada’s creativity. Kabat told WWD she considers the past 13 years a privilege, having represented “this company with its incredible brands and visionary leadership…The breath and depth of my role at Prada USA over the years in marketing, advertising and communications has been truly rewarding.” She said that the time “just feels right to make a change. I’m looking forward to leveraging my experience from Prada, and some other great brands before, towards my next professional challenge.” Prior to her arrival at Prada, Kabat worked first at Giorgio Armani, and later, Swatch.”

(style.com)In the Mood For Shorts

Style.com has some really cute and affordable alternatives to the light, dark and acid wash jean cutoff’s you wore last summer. We love the wrap-front looks and tribal patterned jacquard pair from J.Crew. Here they are at style.com

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Posted on Monday, June 14th, 2010 by
Monday, June 14th, 2010

Happy Monday!

(Style.com)A Guide to Neon

If you’ve ever wondered how exactly to pull off wearing an electric green watch or glowing orange silk top, here is Style.com’s guide to wearing neon this summer. Personally we love the Roarke braided bracelets. Perfect for stacking and so cool for the summer!

Louis Vuitton Cruise 2011

“A little bit Lolita” was how Louis Vuitton style director Julie de Libran described Marc Jacobs’ resort lineup. That means retro, ultrafeminine clothes, with prints of fruit vines and peonies worked onto flouncy skirts, and bows adorning cinch-waisted shorts and trousers. It isn’t all flou and frou, however: There is louche glamour in the cool striped silk blouses and solid suede jackets, and a chic ease to the dresses, particularly a pale pink and cream-trimmed bouclé number with a gentle full skirt.

Lanvin Cruise 2011

“Declaring that women should “have it all,” Alber Elbaz loads Lanvin’s cruise collection with transformable clothes, many with stretch properties and all of them chic. Swimwear is a new category, and draped maillots morph into what Elbaz calls “robes de yacht,” thanks to matching short skirts. Black chemise dresses for day shelter linings of draped tulle or ruffled chiffon, reversing with one zip into fetching cocktail wear.”

(wwd)Teen Retailers Hit by Fashion Shift

“Specialty stores catering to fickle 13- to 19-year-olds are struggling as these consumers grow tired of the Americana and surf-and-skate fashions they’ve long snapped up and search for a new look — even if they’re not quite sure what that look might be. Their ennui is setting off alarm bells over the crucial back-to-school season even as schools let out for the summer.

Not only is demand soft, but competition is growing. Fast-fashion retailers such as H&M, Zara and Forever 21 are gaining momentum since their looks change every six weeks or less, and mass merchants are picking up market share, as well. According to Hana Ben-Shabat, a partner in the retail practice at the A.T. Kearney consulting firm, between 4 and 6 percent of teens last year shifted from shopping at specialty stores to shopping at mass merchants and discounters.

Part of this is being driven by the hangover from the recession — and continued high unemployment. That means teens don’t have money to spend on new clothes, and nor, in many cases, do their parents. Apparel spending, which had averaged 50 percent of teens’ discretionary purchases in 2008, fell to 40 percent last year.” read more

(LATimes) Tony Awards Fashion 2010

“Rain couldn’t deter the good cheer on the red carpet Sunday in New York, as Broadway celebrated its biggest night, the Tony Awards. The night was perhaps a bit more glam than in previous years, as Hollywood seemed to move East for the evening. Radiant in green, Scarlett Johansson, nominated for “A View From the Bridge,” waved to the crowd, gathered outside Radio City Music Hall.  Her costar and fellow nominee Liev Schreiber arrived with  Naomi WattsCatherine Zeta-Jones, nominated for “A Little Night Music,” was glowing in a powder blue gown.

Hamming it up on the carpet was Green Day – Mike Dirnt, Billie Joe Armstrong and Tre Cool — whoseshow “American Idiot” is up for best musical. Among the others making the trek includedDaniel Radcliffe,who appeared in “Equus” on Broadway in 2008; Antonio Banderas, star of  “Nine” in 2003, and wife Melanie Griffith, who appeared “Chicago” that same year; and Bebe Newirth, a star of “The Addams Family” musical. And, of course, the nominees of the evening were looking their best as they headed into the hall:Laura Linney, up for “Time Stands Still”; Christopher Walken, star of  “A Behanding in Spokane”;  grand dame of theater Angela Lansbury, nominated for “A Little Night Music”; Kelsey Grammer, honored for “La Cage aux Folles”; and the evening’s host and “Promises, Promises” nominee Sean Hayes. ”Glee” was well represented, with star Lea Michelle, who appeared on Broadway in 2006 in “Spring Awakening,” prepared to sing “Don’t Rain on My Parade”; Matthew Morrison, who will sing “All I Need is a Girl”; Vocal Adrenaline’s Jonathan Groff, another “Spring Awakening” alum, who says he’ll next be appearing in “Mousetrap” in London; and Idina Menzel, Tony winner for “Wicked” who was seen recently on “Glee” arrived sans husband Taye Diggs.” read more

(wwd)Luxury Counterfeiters Found Guilty

“A federal jury in Richmond found two New York importers guilty in a landmark case involving more than $100 million in counterfeit luxury goods. In one of the largest luxury counterfeit goods prosecutions in U.S. history, Chong Lam and Siu Yung Chan, also known as Joyce Chan, were each convicted of one count of conspiracy to traffic in counterfeit goods imported from China, two counts of trafficking in counterfeit handbags, wallets, purses and carry-on bags and two counts of illegally smuggling counterfeit goods in the U.S. A third defendant, Eric Yuen, was found not guilty of the same charges. The three were charged in January 2008. Evidence presented at trial showed that Lam and Chan, along with their co-conspirators, operated an extensive international manufacturing, import and wholesale counterfeit goods business. Lam and Chan were controlling officers of at least 13 different companies in the U.S. and overseas, and were running at least eight separate factories that produced counterfeit bags, according to the Department of Justice.” read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Posted on Friday, June 11th, 2010 by
Friday, June 11th, 2010

Proenza Schouler Resort 2010

“After a recent trip to India, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez thought about what their Proenza Schouler girl needs for resort — which went beyond the expected saris and rich embellishments. So they chose to use Bandhani tie-dyeing techniques and sweet tie closures rather than buttons and hardware. The cool tie-dye looks range from easy Ts to lightweight dresses, while textured gold dresses are rich and luxe. And beachy Baja tops and tailored coats make the perfect toppers.”

Urban Zen 2010

“After years of talking up in-season shows, Donna Karan finally practiced what she’s been preaching on Thursday. Her first Urban Zen presentation, held in the rooftop garden of the Greenwich Street building that houses the line’s store, featured 13 models in sexy, draped pieces, grounded in T-shirt dressing from the collection that’s currently in stores. “For me, Urban Zen is about bringing it to the consumer,” said Karan. “I wanted to give an immediate experience.”

Neiman Rating Raised, Barneys Unchanged

“Neiman Marcus Inc. got a thumbs-up from one ratings agency Thursday, while Barneys New York Inc. received a less flattering assessment from another.

“Moody’s Investors Service upgraded Neiman’s corporate family rating to “B3” from “Caa1” based on a “solid recovery in credit metrics,” while Standard & Poor’s Ratings Service took Barneys off CreditWatch without changing its “CCC” rating. However, S&P lowered its issue-level rating on Barneys to “CCC-minus” from “CCC” and lowered its recovery rating to 5 from 3 “based on our view that the company’s valuation has diminished over the past few years.” Barneys was placed on CreditWatch with positive implications on April 22. “The negative rating outlook reflects our concern that Barneys’ capital structure is unsustainable and that some sort of restructuring is a likely outcome,” wrote S&P credit analyst David Kuntz. He cited the store’s “weak liquidity position, participation in the narrow luxury segment, small store base, absence of a chief executive officer since mid-2008, highly leveraged capital structure and thin cash flow protection measures” in his research note explaining the action.” read more

Uma Thurman Named Ambassador to Key to the Cure

“Uma Thurman and Donna Karan are teaming to combat women’s cancer. Saks Fifth Avenue and The Breast Cancer Research Foundation tapped the actress as this year’s ambassador to the retailer’s annual Key to the Cure initiative. Karan designed the limited edition T-shirt that will be sold as part of the campaign and benefits a slew of organizations devoted to the fight against cancer. It’s a cause that Thurman and Karan take very seriously. Both have known women affected by the disease, and Thurman was particularly inspired to step up her efforts in the fight against it when she attended the Susan G. Komen Race for the Cure in Central Park in September and shot the starting gun. “It was amazing to see so many women, both survivors and nonsurvivors alike, united in this effort,” said Thurman. “When [Key to the Cure] was presented to me, I thought, ‘This is something I want to make the time to do, something that matters a lot to me.’” Thurman joins past celebrity ambassadors including Gwyneth Paltrow, Charlize Theron, Hilary Swank, Heidi Klum, Glenn Close, Renée Zellweger and Nicole Kidman. Like them, Thurman is to appear in a national public service announcement sporting the Karan-designed T-shirt, which will be placed in September and October issues of fashion and lifestyle publications.” read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Posted on Wednesday, June 9th, 2010 by
Wednesday, June 9th, 2010

Resort Collections 2011:

Marc Jacobs Resort 2011

“The buoyant spirit of wealthy beach towns comes through at Marc Jacobs, where resort is flush with girlish quirks. He works a pastel palette in jumbo tweeds, webby knits and dresses with frothy, floral appliqués, all of which are feminine and flirty to the extreme in the case of full skirts — some midlength, some microsocopic — that kick out at the rear. And on the subdued side are A-line skirts, shorts suits and tipped knits for the playful preppy.”

Stella McCartney Resort 2011

“For Stella McCartney, resort is not a question of show versus showroom, but rather how to temporarily transplant her collection to New York and upstage everyone else with a presentation-as-garden-party. This season, the venue was Gavin Brown’s enterprise staged with vignettes: models playing chess, dancing to an a cappella group, posing in a faux photoshoot (with real NYC photographers cycling through), etc. It all served as a charming, if at times chaotic, backdrop for snappy floral dresses, sporty shorts and jackets done with scalloped edges, McCartney’s signature tailored blazers, lace tops and cropped trapeze trenches. “We just try to have a bit of fun,” said McCartney, shrugging off her inspiration as “flowers, an English garden in New York.”

(wwd)Talbots Reduces Loss in 1st Qtr.

“The Talbots Inc. on Tuesday posted a first-quarter loss that was narrower than a year ago and smaller than analysts expected, but shares fell 9.5 percent on the retailer’s anemic second-quarter forecast and questionable inventory position. For the three months ended May 1, the net loss was $4.4 million, or 8 cents a diluted share, compared with a year-ago loss of $23.6 million, or 44 cents. On an adjusted basis, income from continuing operations, excluding one-time charges related to restructuring and its merger with BPW Acquisition Corp., was $21.7 million, or 38 cents a share, 22 cents above the 16 cents expected, on average, by analysts polled by Yahoo Finance. Sales rose 4.7 percent to $320.7 million from $306.2 million as same-store sales increased 2.4 percent, full-price selling was up 21 percent and markdown selling dropped 31 percent. Referring to these numbers, Trudy Sullivan, president and chief executive officer, told analysts on a morning conference call, “After 11 quarters of a year-over-year sales decline, we have turned the corner to positive sales growth.” read more

(US)JWoww Debuts “Filthy Couture”

We’ve been waiting (not quite at the edges of our seats) since we saw J-Woww at NY Fashion week in September, hoping that maybe it was serving as inspiration for something wearable, but now we’re not quite sure…”At Sunday night’s MTV Movie Awards, Jenni “J-Woww” Farley wasn’t shy about showcasing her latest project, clothing line Filthy Couture. The Jersey Shore star stepped onto the red carpet rocking a lacy pink minidress from the new collection, telling PEOPLE of the revealing plunge-front look, “The dress has a thousand Swarovski crystals. Farley describes her personal style as “sexy gothic,” a look that will anchor Filthy Couture, which is set to debut this July on the heels of her line of made-to-order tops. “I’m more like rocker-edgy, but very sexy,” she said. “Definitely all my dresses and bathing suits and my jeans and shirts will be like that.” And is there such thing as too risqué for the 21-year-old “guidette”? Said J-Woww, “I keep it sexy classy. I won’t go to porn star sexy. I won’t go that far.” For more info on Filthy Couture, visit jwoww.com.” read more

(wwd)Google Exec Touts YouTube as Brand Builder

“One of the biggest brand building mediums today is video, said Kevin Kells, national industry director of consumer packaged goods for Google Inc., which owns YouTube. It tells a story and creates an emotional connection between a brand and its customers. “The very nature of the medium forces you to be engaged with it,” he said, referring to clicking, searching, sharing and commenting. “Video is nothing more than sight, sound and motion storytelling. It’s a really powerful storytelling device.”  In the last month, 77 percent of Americans online watched a video. Only five years old, YouTube garnered 2 billion views a day in May. Every 60 days, more minutes of video are uploaded than the top three broadcast channels produced in 60 years, he said. YouTube is the second-largest search engine in the world after Google, and a quarter of YouTube sessions contain at least one search opportunity for brands, Kells said. Companies can advertise on the home page, next to video that’s important to customers, or they can create brand channels and archive company video.” read more

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Posted on Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 by
Tuesday, June 8th, 2010


CFDA Designer of the Year

(Daily News)CFDA Award Winners

“It was just one of a night of surprises that proved fashion’s in store for a youthquake. For every Brooke Shields and Gwyneth Paltrow, there was Alexa Chung, who sparkled in a demure Marc Jacobs dress, and sometimes “Gossip Girl” star Michelle Trachtenberg, in Rebecca Taylor. Even Marc Jacobs, no spring chicken, walked to the podium to accept his Womenswear Designer of the Year award to the tune of Justin Bieber’s “Baby.” Jason Wu, 28, had to “pinch himself” when he picked up the Swarovski Womenswear award, which honors emerging talent. Wu’s best known for pulling off fashion’s greatest feat – dressing Michelle Obama for the Inaugural Ball – at just 26. Of course, leave it to the Olsen twins to defy their youth and swathe themselves like monks. As 26-year-old nominee Alexander Wang put it, “I love fashion because you can’t define it.” Consider that this generation’s motto: With an “anything goes” attitude, the new guard is ready to shake up the status quo.” read more

(wwd)Wal-Mart Downplays Apparel

“Wal-Mart Stores Inc. has lots of plans for the future when it comes to international expansion, but it made one thing absolutely clear at its annual meeting here: apparel isn’t a focus. “Apparel is a small part of our business,” vice chairman Eduardo Castro-Wright said in a Q&A session with the media following the annual meeting Friday. “Sixty percent of our business is in grocery. “While apparel makes a lot of the headlines, it isn’t our [most] important business. Apparel is a work in progress,” he said, repeating a phrase he’s used several times in recent months. “I can summarize it by saying that we are going back to basics in many ways. Basics, as in business basics and basics, literally, in terms of the product itself. We do extremely well when we sell everyday needs for our customers, anything from socks and underwear to jeans and T-shirts. That’s where we excel and that’s where our value proposition can differentiate us from other retailers.” Apparel is important only “because it completes the trip,” Castro-Wright continued. “If you’re buying groceries and consumables and can pick up [soft goods], that’s the model we’re using to enrich the [product] mix and the overall basket.”  read more

(wwd)Versace Posts Loss for ’09

“Hit by the slump in luxury goods and the extensive restructuring plan masterminded by chief executive officer Giangiacomo Ferraris, Gianni Versace SpA last year had operating losses of 49.6 million euros, or $59.2 million, on a 19 percent fall in sales to 268 million euros, or $320 million. Losses before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization were 2.4 million euros, or $2.7 million, in part due to a slash in Ittierre royalties. Net profit was unavailable. Currency conversions are at current exchange rates. The results confirm a forecast made by Ferraris last fall, when he also predicted flat sales this year but a return to profitability in 2011.” read more

Resort Collection 2011:

DVF Resort 2011

“Diane von Furstenberg’s girl is “always ready to fly at any time” — just like Diane. So her resort collection, titled La Petite Valise, was full of lightweight, throw-on-and-go goods that drew on DVF classics — here, with a young, sporty spirit. Her signature wrap dress came as a romper; graphic prints were bigger and bolder on men’s wear shirts and boxer shorts, and striped and polka-dot swimwear went well with HotPants.”

Carolina Herrera Resort 2011

“With Impressionist colors and technique in mind, Carolina Herrera delivered a resort lineup that felt perfectly apropos for the season’s early spring due date. Silhouettes such as tiered mermaid gowns and sophisticated sheaths were in tune with Herrera’s feminine, formal oeuvre, but they were rendered with a new lightness in sheer organzas and a playful parasol print done in shades of pale pink, mint green and sky blue.”

Oscar De La Renta Resort 2011

“Always one for whom more is more, Oscar de la Renta included 55 ultrafeminine looks in his resort collection that left all his bases covered. For day, short tweed jackets — many done up in inventive textures — added a trim, tailored layer to skirts, frothy or fluted, while great knitwear and a refreshing chambray, denim and khaki series addressed de la Renta’s more casual constituents. And evening was a grand affair, full of full-skirted ball gowns and elegant columns.”

Same store sales preview: investors brace for a chilly spending environment

Posted on Thursday, June 3rd, 2010 by
Thursday, June 3rd, 2010

Despite temperatures soaring well above 85 degrees across the country, however there’s a chill and it’s coming from the American consumer.

In light of same store sales numbers that will be reported later this morning, analysts are estimating ( by way of Reuters) May comps will be up 2.6 percent a  mere whimper compared to March and April numbers. What gives? A lot of factors. For example, March and April’s push to purchase reflected a phenom. I like to call “frugal fatigue” also known (to the economist set) as pent up demand. In addition, Easter came a week earlier compared to the previous year. Also, fears of Euro debt contagion,  BP oil spill environmental disaster, stock market volatility and unemployment numbers are causing the American consumer to spend less and save more.  The result- deparment store comps are expected to be up 0.9 percent and 1.1 percent while teen retailers are expected to take a nose dive by 2.6 percent. In light of uncertaintly, there are retailers I think will weather the storm:

1) Norstrom ( JWN)

Reasons why: Multi- channel increases of 13.9%, Nordstrom Rack highly successful for them opened 6 new stores in the last quarter and  inventory mix is STELLAR (read: perfectly merchandised jeggings, denim and DvF dresses).

2) JCrew (JCG):

Reasons why: Posted strong first quarter results, with net income doubling to more than $44.7 million and comp store sales rising 15 percent. Raised guidance for fiscal year 2010 earnings from $2.35 to $2.45 a diluted share.  Hi-fi partnerships with designers such as Belstaff, Essie nail polish, Hunter wellies, Fallon jewelry and Net-a-porter will give J.Crew fashion street cred and presence in over 170 different countries without overhead cost.

3) TJMaxx (TJX):

Reasons why:  Analysts expect comp store sales to come in at 2.7% and by the looks of store traffic from my numerous visits, assortments and inventory control they are in a good position.  Also, Carol Meyrowitz announced at the annual meeting on Wednesday TJX is rolling out another off-price retail concept set to launch in 3Q 2011. One thing to be wary of is their plan to invest almost all of thier $750 million of capital budget in Marmaxx and TJX Europe. Biut with a rise in first quarter profits of 58.4% to $331 million, euro currency fears may not have much of an effect on this retail behemoth.

4) Blue Nile (NILE):

Reasons why: According to the CEO in an interview on CNBC, net sales increased 18.7% to $74.1 million operating income grew 23.3 % to $3.6 million in the 4th quater.  In addition, international sales grew 71.4% and there is iscounting on top of sinking diamond prices compared to gold:  $NILE’s prices are 20% – 60% lower than retail because they don’t have infrastructure of the store.

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Posted on Wednesday, June 2nd, 2010 by
Wednesday, June 2nd, 2010


(wwd)YSL Cruise 2011

“Everybody has a reference in mind because Yves Saint Laurent is so iconic. So how are you going to do it”

While in New York showing for the showing of his Yves Saint Laurent resort collection on Thursday at the French Consulate, Stefano Pilati said about the collection“For me, it’s about understanding now that [the iconic looks] are basically cult. So the answer is to take certain elements from the archives and change them.”As for his show, Pilati said the venue makes perfect sense. “Resort started for the American market,” he said. “And so, this is a sort of a mini-show in New York in a space that could breathe a bit of French history by itself. You know, a collaboration.” read/see more

(wwd)“Made in Midtown”

“In a surprising finding, an independent study of the Garment District found the neighborhood is far from dying and has a future as a productive incubator of ideas — with the right support. That was the takeaway from the much-anticipated “Made in Midtown” survey that will be released today by the nonprofit Design Trust for Public Space after six months of in-depth research and man-on-the-street conversations with a battery of sources. But what was even more surprising to the group’s executive director, Deborah Marton — and perhaps more inspirational to the scores of designers who have yet to make names for themselves — is the vibrancy that exists for start-up businesses and emerging designers.

The fact the area is an incubator of ideas — or more of “a research and development hub” as opposed to an industrial production community — was a bit of a surprise, she said. The degree to which companies of various sizes use the district in that way, especially in terms of plucking fresh talent, was another eye-opener. “Made in Midtown” determined that 846 fashion companies are headquartered in the Garment District, which is more than those based in Paris, Milan and London combined.” read more

Déjeuner Silk Short, $88 (nymag)

(wwd)Shorts Return to Fashion

“Retailers report they’re experiencing double-digit increases in the shorts category, and it’s not just because the weather has heated up. Shorts have become fashion items, ranging from denim cutoffs to rolled and cuffed twill shorts to belted cargoes and longer, slinky silk shorts for evening.

Bloomingdale’s, for example, is touting shorts as “the summer essential from minis to knee-length” in signage at the entrance of its contemporary department. Across the country, stores ranging from Lord & Taylor, Belk and Saks Fifth Avenue to Scoop, Olive & Bette’s and Chalk Boutique are seeing customers gravitate toward shorts in greater numbers than previous years.  “It’s one of our big pushes. We got them in early and they started off very well,” said Frank Doroff, vice chairman and general merchandise manager for ready-to-wear at Bloomingdale’s. Some of the brands doing well are Sanctuary, Buffalo and Calvin Klein Jeans, especially in twills and rayons. “The rolled cuffed shorts are working really well. They’re the hottest trend,” said Rodbell. In denim, shorts from AG and Rich & Skinny have also been strong sellers, she said. “It’s easy to wear the rolled look, and the whole military thing is anchoring it,” she said. She said L&T is also doing well with the cocktail short, “which is softer and more fluid. It’s not big volume yet, and it’s more dressed up. It’s flirtier,” she said. Some of those vendors include 860, Love 80 and BCBG. read more

On that note, The Cut recommends J. Crew’s Déjeuner pair (pictured above). The silk fabric makes these evening-appropriate, while the drawstring gives them a sporty spin that’s suitable for day.-nymag

(TED)Johanna Blakley: Lessons from fashion’s free culture

We are always on the lookout for great TED talks, and here is one that is relevant to the business of fashion. Johanna Blakley talks about copyright laws, how much knock off designers can get away with and whether or not we need copyright laws in fashion to protect designers and their designs.